MJ Between NJ and LJ (Peace of my Mind)
Day 0
When I wake up
This morning
I don't know that
I'll be starting
My long trip home
Tomorrow
My plan as of this point
Is to visit Gina in Maryland
Tomorrow, Sunday,
And then return to Princeton Monday
To have my car serviced
And to pack,
And then leave on Tuesday,
September 1st
Early in the summer
I'd hit on the idea of
Detouring to
The Canadian Rockies
On the way from
New Jersey to La Jolla
Aware that I'll be
Passing through Chicago
And thinking about how
I've been accelerating
Contacting friends and relatives
As my summer stay in NJ
Is coming to a close,
I realize that
My old pal Bill Bernath
Lives in Chicago
I decide to call him
And see if a visit
Will work out
I try calling
The number I have
In my address book
But this doesn't work,
Not that surprisingly,
Since it's been a few years
I have to get Bill and Cindy's number
From Cindy's relatives in NJ,
Which I've done before
Bill is home
And looks forward to
Seeing me Thursday evening
Thinking about getting in touch with
Joan in North Carolina,
I hesitate
It wouldn't make sense
To go there after
Returning from Maryland,
Yet if I were to
Go from Maryland to NC
I'd in effect be
Starting my trip tomorrow,
Two days early
I have to see Gina tomorrow, too,
Since she has no other day
Which she can spend with me
Deciding that if
A visit with Joan
Is in the cards,
I'll manage
To pack somehow today
And move out as of tomorrow
I will have to
Work things out
With my landlord
And will forego
Having my car serviced,
But that will be OK
Joan is in
And is excited
At the prospect
Of a visit
I will go to North Carolina Monday
From Maryland
Now looking at my map
And seeing what kind of route
I might take
From North Carolina
To Chicago,
I realize that
I will probably
Pass through Kentucky,
Where Mike Adams lives
Mike is in
And enthusiastic about
A visit on Wednesday,
Giving me an extra day
To kill in NC
I try getting in touch with
Tim Satterly,
To see if I can
Squeeze in a visit
This afternoon,
Between lunch with
Steve and Marion Sussna
And dinner with
Bob and Deb Sussna,
But I have to leave a message
On Tim's machine
I pack as much as I can
In between lunch and dinner
And after dinner
And will have to finish
Before I leave for Gina's
Tomorrow
At lunch in Lawrenceville
I am told that
My cousin Alan
Is living in Chicago,
So I get his info
When I get home after lunch
I have a message from Tim
I try calling
But he is out again
I never do get to see
Him and Jane and their kids
And it's too bad
I've waited so long to call
The same thing happened with
Paulette and Richard and their kids
Within the last week
I meet Bob and Deb for dinner
At Marcella's in Stockton,
A block from the bridge
Over the Delaware
To Pennsylvania
I'd seen my landlord
During the day,
So we're in sync
About my leaving Sunday
Day 1
I finish packing,
Say so long to my landlords,
Bill and Joan Ellis,
And set off to see Gina,
Trying to get there
For a late lunch
As we'd originally planned
I arrive at Arnold,
Present Pern to
The Warren gals,
And camcord Gina and Alexis,
Gina meets Junior
And I meet General
Gina and I go
To Annapolis,
Although Alexis
Can't make it
We have trouble parking,
Finally adventurously
Parallel parking in
Gina's new Diamante
We have lunch
In the open air,
Me sipping Gina's
Black bean soup,
Napkins flying
At our neighbors
We traipse around town
On a beautiful day,
Visiting the Nature Company,
Where there are drawers
Full of neat minerals,
But they're out of marbles
A little art gallery
Is serving snacks
A historical house
Has a plaque on the wall
Bearing the name Robert Johnson
I tell Gina that
I need to show her
My binder of poems
We walk on
Big chunks of stone
Lining the water
At the Naval Academy
We near the end of the dock
And Gina's saying something about
When she's 80
She wants euthanasia
So she won't have to
Live with pain
And a deteriorating mind,
So I mention how
On the drive in
I'd thought about saying
"What are you doing
For the next 40 years?"
And how she'd be 80
In 40 years
She says she might consider
Going on living at 80
Depending on how things are going
We sit for a long time,
Dangling our feet over the edge,
And talk of many things,
Including letting one's partner
Be themself,
Of being open and equals,
Of the difficulty sometimes
Of telling them what
They don't want to hear,
And also how it can be hard
To tell 'em what
They do want to hear!
Back to the townhouse
After recrossing
The Severn Scenic River
Gina and Alexis
Both think that
The August Gilbert Williams
Picture of the princess
("Pool of Light")
Is beautiful
Gina makes some calls
'Cause she'd been beeped
While we were in town
And checks in with Alexis,
Who's starting 8th grade
Tomorrow
Both ladies love my
Computer art bookmarks
And take two each
We look at my
Computer art portfolio
And they both think that
The images are gorgeous,
Oo-ing and ah-ing repeatedly,
Which does my heart good
We look at Gina's photos
From camping and
Massachusetts
I see Donna Reed
In Gina again,
Like I did in May,
And today I see
Mimi Rogers in her, too
Gina sees my poetry pile
And asks for a copy
She reads 'Woodwork
About Robert Johnson
We have Chinese delivered
And Alexis tells me about
The courses she'll be taking
Somehow we get on
The subject of
The periodic table
Of the elements
And Alexis asks about
Her egg roll,
So I say "Sure,
Egg roll atoms"
Then it's time to
Say so long
Gina sees me out to Psience
And we chat and hug and part
Gina confides that
Alexis likes me,
Which does my heart good, too,
And we talk about Junior some more
I head into town to
The Prince George
Bed and breakfast,
Which Gina had set up for me
Day 2
Morning and buffet breakfast
Outside in the backyard
Writing down Day 1
I call Gina at work
To say goodbye
I drop off Enya for her
Behind a big plant pot
By the front door
Well into Virginia --
Gina must still be with me
'Cause there's a sign for
US 301 and Kenly
US 301 is the route
Gina suggested
And that I took
For much of the way
To Annapolis,
And Gina once lived on
Kenli Lane in Brielle
A maroon 18-wheeler cab
With a high curving flange
Reminds me of
A hornless triceratops
Now down in North Carolina,
A black guy
In a black Isuzu pickup
Passes
I notice he has a
Roughly spherical crystal
The same size as mine
Hanging from
His rearview mirror
Like mine does from mine
He slows down some
And a bit later
I pass him on the right
And honk, wave,
And point out my crystal
He laughs and waves
And falls behind
And out of sight
An hour later
He passes me again
And ends up
A few hundred feet ahead
I can see his crystal
Glinting sparks of color,
At one point
Even through an
Intervening car's
Windshield and back window
He falls behind again
But 20 minutes later
Here he comes,
And passes me one more time
To disappear up ahead,
But not before
I catch some pretty glints
Occasionally I pass
A patch of ivy-smothered trees
That reminds me of
A Virgil Finlay picture of
Snow-covered mountains
With bogeyman faces,
Or of furniture
In a vacant house
Draped in leafy green sheets
I wonder if this is
The infamous kudzu vine
That is plaguing the South?
At some point
Earlier in the day
I had thought about
Coming across a "Sculf Road" --
Well, sure enough,
I pass a "Scull Road" now
And just past it
I see a black man
Sitting outside
With his profile
Turned to me
As I pass
He raises his hand
And sort of waves
Though there's no one else there,
So I wave out
The right hand window
Without taking my eyes
Off the road
I finally make it to Joan's
And meet little Jock
For the first time --
He's gonna be 4
In about a week
Pow-wow the dog
Is kept in a room
So I don't get to meet her
We go out to dinner,
Catching up on old times
Jock has me hold his hand
As we walk to
The restaurant,
And later to
The Winn-Dixie,
And I'm flattered
Then we relax
Back at the house
The TV's on
And in my split attention
Between chatting
And glancing at the tube
I catch sight of a truck
With the name "Bill Ellis"
In large letters
Along the side --
Recall that
My landlords in Princeton
Were Bill Ellis
And his wife Joan
Day 3
I'm sitting in Joan's kitchen
Documenting Day 2
Before Joan and Jock get up
Out the back window
Are lots of potted plants
And a bunch of bird feeders
Of all shapes and sizes
A cardinal lands
On the ground nearby
Joan and Jock
Make their appearance
And we talk about
High school and mockingbirds
Jock's wearing
My watch again
As he watches me write
He gives us stickers
For our arms --
A sneaker, a truck, a telephone
Pancakes at Shoney's,
A stop at the tune store
Across the street
So I can replace my Enya,
And I also get
The Little Games sessions
2-CD set,
Yet another
Lost Yardbirds album
Then it's back to the house
We check on Pinehurst
Golf club procedures
And then head into
Southern Pines
So Joan can make
A haircutting appointment
A nice plate
On a car parked in town
Reads "INHEAVEN"
Jock and I
Spend an hour
In the local bookstore
Looking at books about
The teenage mutant ninja turtles,
Young Indiana Jones,
And James Bond, Jr.,
And we find Waldo in puzzles
I'm anxious to play golf
But as the hours slip by
It doesn't seem to be in the cards
Joan and I enjoy
A good lunch
Where we both have
Grilled cheese
With bacon and tomato
And salad
On the ride back home
I'm feeling oppressed as
Joan is going on about how
Everybody's phone is tapped,
She smokes another cigarette,
The radio is playing
Something monotonous,
It's hot,
And it looks like
I'm never gonna get to play golf,
At which point
My gold tooth filling comes out
Uh-oh
But don't panic,
Go with the flow
I try to find
A dentist who will
Fix me up today
Or early tomorrow
So I can be on my way as planned
It's already late afternoon,
So today is out,
But 11:30 tomorrow
Beats 1:30,
And then 9:15 beats that
We have Chinese food for dinner --
This is the 5th time
In a little over a week
That I've had Chinese food:
At Berger's last Sunday,
With Kit Monday,
For work lunch Thursday,
At Gina's Sunday (Ho-Lee-Chow),
And now this
(And that doesn't count when
Deb had suggested Chinese
For dinner on Saturday
Though we ended up at Marcella's),
And I'd only had Chinese food
Once all summer previously,
At a Siemens
Learning Systems
Department luncheon
At a Chinese restaurant
Why don't I just stay
An extra day
And play golf anyway?
But I need to see
If this will work out
With both Mike A. and Bill B.
It's 10:30
By the time we get home
But Mike answers
And it's OK with him;
Same for Bill
In fact, both say
It will work out
Even better this way
Day 4
I find the dentist's,
Wait a little while,
Get fixed up
With recementing
In only a few minutes
And then it's time to pay
I'm girding myself
For the damages
But it's only $18 --
Alright!
I'm writing down Day 3
In the kitchen
With the perpetual
Stream-dripping faucet,
And the plant-covered table
And the red-nectared
Hummingbird feeder
Attached to the window
There's a cardinal outside again
And Jock the yogurt monster
Is keeping me company again
To Pinehurst for a tee time
I buy electric Madras bermudas
So I'll be properly attired
At the hardware store
Two interesting plates
Sit side by side:
"EXISTING" and "IMTHEMAN"
We have lunch
At the country club
And then it's time to play
I'm thrown in
With two retirees
Who've just teed off
On course 1 (of 7)
And we're off
It takes me til the 15th
To finally get in the groove
But it's a beautiful
Pine-infused course,
As epitomized by "PINEWILD"
In the parking lot afterward
We have dinner at
John's Barbecue
But we can't pay --
He won't take plastic
And that's all we have
Fortunately
He'll let Joan pay
Next time she comes by
Back home we watch TV
And see Jimmy Connors
Win his 40th birthday match
At the US Open
Joan disappears
To get Jock to bed
And never reappears,
Having conked out herself
Day 5
Breakfast and farewells
There's a spot of sap
That won't come off
On my car,
From parking under the pines
In Joan's yard
I'm on my way after 12:30
With many miles to cover
Past the North Carolina Motor Speedway
In Rockingham --
Brother Bob would eat this up
Off and on rain and sun
And a trillion traffic lights
Along US 74
At one point
It's drizzling
And wood chips are raining
On my car
From a truck of loose chips
In front of me
It takes five hours
Just to get to Asheville
Via South Carolina,
Constantly adjusting
The A/C up and down
As the sun comes out
And goes behind clouds,
And the wiper speed up and down
As the rain ranges
From none to a drizzle and back
Again and again
I call Mike
To give him my status --
It's 6 and I'm only in Asheville,
Where I fill my tank of tunes
As well as fuel and food,
And I'd originally worried about
Getting to Lexington
Before he got home at 5
He says it should take
Another 4½ or 5 hours
I zip there in 4 hours,
Bleary-eyed,
Passing through the beautiful
Great Smoky Mountains,
Which are mantled in clouds,
Picking up I75 in 11:11 land (Knoxville)
And doing 75
All the 166 miles to Lexington
I find Mike's house by 10 PM
But there's no answer
Is he so sound asleep
That he can't hear me knocking,
Or maybe he's out
And will return by 11
When I should have arrived?
He did say
To pound the door hard
When I arrive
Oh well,
To kill the time
I'm sitting in the car
Writing this down
After eating a cold
Burger King bacon double
I'd brought along --
Not the greatest dinner
At 11,
After unsuccessfully
Trying to get comfortable
In my stuffed-to-the-gills car,
I figure since Mike hasn't driven up
That he really must be out cold
I'm about to start the car
To go find a pay phone
When up drives Mike
We shmooz and
Listen to music
Til the wee hours
Josh and Chris, Mike's sons,
Are staying with Mike's ex, Becky,
So I don't get to see them,
But I met Max,
Mike's husky,
While trying to see
If anyone was home
Mike tells me about Zina
(Which rhymes with Dinah)
Who possibly portends
The first real romance for Mike
In the five years
He's been back home in Kentucky
Day 6
Mike and I
Are up bright and early
To try to fit in
A trip to the hills,
A tour of town,
And a visit to a tune store
As we head out after breakfast
It starts raining
It's grey and rainy
So we don't go hiking
To the natural bridge
But we go by,
And view Appalachia poverty
In the eastern Kentucky hills
As Chrissie Hynde sings about
Corrugated tin shacks in
"The Middle of the Road"
We go through the Nada
One-lane tunnel
Hewn roughly from the rock
Back to Lexington
And Howard Johnson's
For an all-you-can-eat
On fried clams,
Catching up on baseball and sci-fi
Joan hadn't wanted
To go to Ho Jo's
Though there is one near her,
And I'd resisted the urge
To pull into this one
Last night
When pulling off I75 --
Mike might have met me here
So, stopping at this Ho Jo
Finally satisfies my Ho Jo desires
We go for
A quick drive around town,
Seeing a stretch of
Nice older homes,
Rupp Arena,
And horse farms
Then we hit the tune store,
"Cut-corner Records,"
For some great 99¢ CD's for Mike
And some Sug-man for me
Later it's 38 Special's "Chain Lightning"
And Xanth 2 and Neuromancer for Mike
It's back to the house,
Mike shakes Junie-man's hand
So long and
I'm on the road to Chicago
It's rainy and overcast
Til Indianapolis
And I'm concerned about
Really getting slowed down
Since it's a major city,
It's rush hour,
And there's construction
On the interstate I'm on,
But the sun comes out to stay,
The clouds disappearing,
And I flow right through the city
Now I've stopped
For fuel, food, and tunes
And update Bill on my ETA
So, I'm writing this
At a Dairy Queen
In mid-Indiana
At a sunlit table
I restock and restoke
The tune furnace
And it's on into Chicago
And the Bernaths
I meet Bill and Cindy's kids
Jessica and Billy,
Who are 9 and 7 respectively,
For the first time,
And their rambunctious Rotweiler, Daphne
Bill and I chew the fat
For a couple of hours
Day 7
I'm doing documentation
In the kitchen
To country music
After chatting with Cindy
And drinking coffee
And consuming some great big bagels
Bill and I head up to
The first day of
The Michael Jordan/Ronald McDonald
Celebrity charity golf tournament,
Where Bill is going to be a marshall
We're stationed mostly
At the 3rd green
For several hours
On a perfect sunny day
With temperatures in the low 80s,
Blue skies and puffy white clouds,
And a number of celebrities
Play the hole
And walk right by us
I'm kicking myself
For not bringing my camcorder
Or even a camera
Before the parade
Of celebrities begins,
I'm telling Bill about
Watching car racing on TV
All day at Bob and Deb's
Earlier in the summer,
And how at one point
One of the drivers
Had a familiar sounding name:
Walter Payton
It turned out to
Actually be
The great football player,
Who's now into auto racing
Looking at the program
For the day's foursomes,
It turns out that
Ole Sweetness,
Walter Payton,
Is scheduled to play
It eventually turns out, alas,
That Walter is a no-show
We don't see Willie McCovey,
Fred Lynn, Bonnie Blair,
Dr. J., Sugar Ray,
Mike Schmidt, Jon Cusack,
Or Jim Rice,
Who had played by earlier,
But we do see Terry Porter,
Michael Jordan, David Robinson,
Evander Holyfield, Dave Johnson
(Of "Dan and Dave" fame,
The Olympic decathlete),
And LeVar Burton
Dave is taller than I'd thought
And LeVar shorter
I ask Dave for his autograph
And as he is signing my program
I say "I hope you take it in Atlanta"
And he replies "Me too"
And I finish with
"We'll be rooting for you"
As he walks off
As fate would have it,
Today Dan (O'Brien)
Is in Talence, France
Setting the world record
In the decathlon,
His picture appearing
In tomorrow's paper
I also ask LeVar
For his autograph
And he obliges,
Walking as he writes,
Looking over at me intently
As he hands back the program
Perhaps he wants to
Get a good look at me --
I'm asking for his autograph
Instead of that of Charles Barkley,
Who is in the same group
Perhaps he wishes he had
Geordie's "visor"
After I get a good sunburn
Bill and I leave
To finally play
Some golf of our own
A plate I like is
A red on white
Wisconsin "JAY 191" --
Mr. Sculf's first name is Jay
And my full name
Translated into numbers
Adds up to 191
We don't tee off
At Downer's Grove
Until almost 5:30
The group in front of us
Is very slow
And after one hole
An inter-racial couple,
Delmer and Cindy,
Catch up to us
And join us
I borrow Bill's
Slice-reducing metal driver
And hit the ball quite far
We play as it gets darker
And have to pick up after 8 holes
Because it's night time
Bill and I stop for dinner
And afterward
I have a moment of panic
When I think I've lost
My new AT&T
Universal card,
Which I've been relying on
For the whole trip --
But I haven't checked one pocket
Which I normally wouldn't
Put my card in
Sure enough,
It's in there --
I'd put it there
To free another pocket
For tees and a ball
Back home I try
Calling cousin Alan
And we set up
A get together
For tomorrow afternoon
Then Bill and I
Relax in the basement,
Listening to ZBS
And munching crackers
While we watch TV
Day 8
We're up at 7
So we can maybe play 9 holes,
Eat something,
See Chicago's skyscrapers,
And stop at the golf store
For a bag and
A slice-reducing driver,
All before getting over to
Michael Jordan's Tournament
By 12:30
It's overcast as we play 9
At Green Meadows
I finish with a par
We head downtown
And I film the 'scrapers
As we manoeuver through
Bears opening game traffic
We just have time to
Gobble an english muffin
And then rush up to the tournament,
All four Bernaths
In "DA VAN 4"
And me following
Though he said he would,
Bill doesn't wait for me
At the three toll plazas,
Which is nontrivial
Since I don't know how to
Get where we're going,
And I have to keep catching up
Doing 75 in traffic
On roads under construction
Where the speed limit is 45
I manage to catch him
And we get to the 3rd hole
In time to watch Terry Porter
And then John Denver
This time I've got
My camcorder
And pocket 35mm camera
Michael Jordan
And Charles Barkley
Come through together,
With soap star Jack Wagner --
I get good shots of 'em all
Willie McCovey and Jim Rice
Are in what turns out to be
The final group
And we can leave
Originally we had expected
To be there til maybe 4:30
Which is why I brought my car,
Since I had to be at Alan's at 5:30,
But it's only 1:30
With time on our hands
And another beautiful day after all,
We head into Long Grove for lunch
I pay for the group
And the waitress neglects to
Bring my AT&T card back
Fortunately I notice this
And another crisis is avoided
We traipse around the
Little touristy town
I ask Bill how to
Get to the golf store,
As I still have 2 hours
Til I'm due at Alan's,
And he says he might as well
Lead me to the parking lot
Where the store is located
We get there
And say our farewells
I get a nice new blue bag
And a Captain Hook
Slice-reducing driver
I dump out my old, mildewy bag
In the parking lot
And some curious items fall out --
An ice scraper/snow brush
And some shards of glass
From my 1986 accident
It's time to head to Alan's
I get there right on time
And chat with Alan,
Then Brenda and the boys get home
I meet Benjamin and Daniel Sussna (6 and 4)
For the first time
And get reacquainted with Brenda
I shower,
We have a nice dinner
On the patio in the backyard,
And then I play ball with Benjamin
He's very bright
And we hit it off
Then we're inside
Alan and I are
Talking about our work,
And Daniel asks me if
I would like to watch "Hook"
About Captain Hook
Hmm...
Bedtime and documenting
Yesterday and today
In the family room area
Day 9
Alan makes pancakes
For the boys and me --
Brenda is playing
In a tennis tournament
So I only see her
On her way out
We watch the movie "Hook,"
Which is wonderful
And consolidates the coincidence
With my new driver,
But the coincidence intensifies
Because it turns out that
The movie is actually about Peter Pan,
Who came up repeatedly
With Jock in North Carolina
(I even referred to
"Going for Peter Pancakes"
To Joan and Jock)
A number of familiar faces
Appear in the movie,
Including Robin Williams,
Julia Roberts, Bob Hoskins,
Maggie Smith, Phil Collins,
and David Crosby
It isn't til
I'm taking a morning shower
On Day 10
That I remember that
Another famous star
Is supposed to be in the cast --
Dustin Hoffman
I never suspected
During the movie
That he was Captain Hook,
Though I even wondered
Who was playing the captain
Interestingly, Joan had told me
About once seeing Dustin Hoffman
Walk by with his little boy
As Joan was sitting down
In downtown Pinehurst
I was going to spend the day
With Alan, Brenda, and the boys
But the club where
Brenda is playing
Doesn't allow guests
On holidays
And today is Labor Day,
So it's time to get on the road
I never get to
Say goodbye to Brenda
But Alan says
They'll visit San Diego
I retwist my right ankle
Taking my suitcase out to my car
I'd twisted it
Playing basketball
At Harry Sepp's
The weekend before this trip
I'm into Wisconsin
For the first time
Past Milwaukee and Madison
In the afternoon
There are bursts and spurts of purps,
The bluish-purple flowers,
Along the roadside
Between Oconomowoc and Ixonia
I'd always liked them
When living in upstate New York
And had seen them this summer
In Princeton
I'd wanted to photograph them
But hadn't,
And saw them
When back in Dutchess County
Visiting Renate
Two weeks ago,
But hadn't photographed them
I saw them again
In Kentucky
But hadn't photographed them
Finally, yesterday, I did,
In Long Grove
With the Bernaths
After a period of steady rain,
Where I have to choose between
Cruise control or windshield wipers
At more than a slow rate,
There is a traffic jam
More appropriate for
Rush hour on an LA freeway
Than for an interstate
In the sticks of
Western Wisconsin
We crawl at 5 mph
Or stop dead
For 5 miles before
The two lanes merge
Due to highway construction
This kills the better part of an hour
And I'd been hoping to
Make it well into Minnesota
Even though I hadn't gotten started
Until after lunch
A couple of times
I pass curious signs
For the "Pine Cone" restaurant
That say "start smiling"
And of course I do
("Sussna" means "pine")
There's an interesting
Use of words
At one point
For a religious center:
Trinity Divinity
By 7 and sunset
I've reached La Crosse
At the western edge
Of Wisconsin
And stop for dinner and gas
I decide to try
To cross the 280 miles
Of southern Minnesota
Before I call it a day,
And hurtle at a steady 75,
The 3/4 moon, Jun, and tunes
Keeping me company
Crossing the Mississippi
Signals more than
A change of states --
The land starts rising
Into the great western plateau,
And indeed we are now in the West
Only an hour and a half after dinner
I stop to use the facilities
And can't believe
How cold it is --
I'm in shorts
Per the 80-degree plus days
We'd had in the Windy City
And it must be
30 degrees colder now
Than it was at dinnertime
I see my first two Iowa plates,
Which have numbers of 764 and 191
(764 is 4 x 191)
At one point,
After seeing a sign saying
To tune to a specific station
For weather information,
I switch on AM radio,
Which I still have set to
WABC, New York
From listening to Yankee games
The last couple of weeks
Of my stay in New Jersey,
And the radio blasts out
"WABC 770" here
In the middle of Minnesota
I even catch the news that
The Yanks have scored 4
In the 13th inning
To beat Baltimore 6-2
(Sorry, Oriole fans)
I pull into
Sioux Falls, South Dakota
Exactly as
The Himalaya 3+ T's end
After 11 PM
To jump in bed exhausted
The Himalayas are
My favorite songs,
72 tapes worth --
The 3+'s are the lowest level
Of these highest songs,
And the T's are
The songs whose titles
Begin with the letter "T"
The T's have been on
For 2+ days
And 8 or 10 90-minute tapes
I've entered 3 states today
That I've never been in before
Day 10
Breakfast of 5 pancakes at Perkins
And I'm off to cross
The 400 miles of South Dakota
To the Black Hills
Along much of the way
There are those funny
Cylindrical bales of hay,
From 3 to 6 feet across,
Sometimes solitary
Like petrified sequoia logs,
Sometimes aligned end to end
Making enormous tootsie rolls,
Sometimes stacked
To 2 or 3 levels
Like cannon balls
Right after the second
Antiabortion billboard
A sign for the town
Pukwana
Seems appropriate
On a grassy hillside
A bunch of light boulders
Distributed randomly
Turns out to be cows
Lying down at various angles
From a couple of hundred miles
Before the actual exit for it,
A bazillion signs,
Each one different,
Proclaim the virtues of Wall Drug
I stop there for lunch and gas
And browse for a while,
Only picking up a few
Pretty polished pebbles
Now it's time to
Locate Mount Rushmore
There are many signs
Advertising a place
Where they tell
The story of the carving
The person who did it,
Whose name sounds like
A science fiction alien's,
Was Gutzon Borglum
The mountain is over 20 miles
Off the interstate
But that's OK,
It's only early afternoon
I get there
And do my camcord thing,
Obliging an old gent's request
To take his picture
With the big boys as background
Passing numerous signs
On the way in
For several caves and caverns,
I plan on going to at least one,
Perhaps "Crystal Cavern"
Since I'm so far
Off the interstate
And the only cave nearby
Is the "Mt. Rushmore Caverns"
I figure I'll go there
But, since Joan had insisted
That I see the Crazy Horse
Mountain face sculpture
And there are signs for it
And for yet another cave,
The Jewel Cave,
I head for Crazy Horse
This is almost 20 miles
Even further from I90,
Through the beautiful Black Hills,
So I imagine that
I won't be heading back to
Mount Rushmore Caverns,
Let alone that stretch of I90,
And I'll go to Jewel Cave
And continue on into Wyoming
On the US highway I'm on
And connect back up with I90
Way into Wyoming
Crazy Horse is very disappointing,
Especially after
Just seeing Mount Rushmore,
Being barely started and crude
It's getting to be 4 PM
And I rush now
On the back road US 16
To try to get to Jewel Cave
As soon as possible,
Thinking they might close by 5
I get there about
Quarter to 5
But the last tour
Had been at 4
The info center
Is still open
So I browse
There are neat maps
Of Jewel Cave and Wind Cave
And fascinating
Mineral and crystal displays,
But it looks like
I'm not going to see any caves
After all
Now, looking at my route,
I realize that I've already
Gone somewhat west
Of Devil's Tower,
Which I'd planned on seeing,
And would have
A long, backroad trip
To get to I90
And from there to backtrack
On another back road
To get to the Tower --
If only I'd ignored Crazy Horse
And headed back from Mt. Rushmore
To one of the original caves
And back to I90
East of Devil's Tower
Now I fight the setting sun,
Doing 70+ on these back roads
Through the northeastern corner of Wyoming
To try to reach the Tower
Before the sun sets
Somehow I just make it,
Though it's touch and go,
With big clouds blocking the sun
Much of the way
As I start back
A deer strolls across the road
As if to slow me down --
I am going kind of fast
Now I get back to I90
And head west
To see how far I can get
Towards Montana
Before calling it a day
I stop for dinner
At the Perkins in Gillette
It seems that most of the roads here
Are named for creeks --
Some of the more interesting exits
Are for Wild Horse Creek Road,
Dead Horse Creek Road,
Crazy Woman Creek Road,
Piney Creek Road,
And Prairie Dog Creek Road
I stop for the night
At Sheriden,
Just shy of the Montana border
Even with the stops and back roads
It's still been
An almost 700-mile day
Day 11
Up at 6,
It's 45 with wind chill 24
Checkout at 7,
Breakfast at Perkins again,
Writing for an hour
To fill in some missed,
As well as new, points
Scribbled on a map
Or scrap of paper
While driving,
And Day 10's events
There's snow on the
Big Horn Mountains
Across the street
With all the speeding
That I've been doing,
There haven't been any cops
In Minnesota,
South Dakota,
Or Wyoming
As I'm crossing into Montana
I remember thinking about
Junior's spot up front,
Where he's propped up on a pillow
And has his chin on the dashboard,
As his crow's nest --
Just across the Montana border
There's a sign declaring
That we're now entering
The Crow Indian reservation
There's an intriguing
Official sign for
The Tongue River Creative Playground
Another sign announces
The Connor Battlefield --
I wonder if there's any relation to
Dave Connor,
Who I used to work with
At AGS in Dutchess County
And who grew up
In Montana or Wyoming
The air is crystal clean
The lower Montana country
Is rolling tan prairie,
The only trees being deciduous,
Some with leaves
Turned yellow or orange,
Nestled only in crevices and creases
Of the undulating landscape,
And evergreens perched on hillcrests
A hundred-car train
Drawn by four engines
Chugs alongside
No clouds are allowed today
A song on my current tape ends
And I get a yen
To turn on the radio
And see if I can find
A baseball game to listen to
Even though it's only
11 AM, Mountain Time
I search through the AM band,
Finding only a handful of stations,
Mostly country and western music,
When I get
"A White Sport Coat and a Pink Carnation,"
A real blast from the past
With no break
One of my all-time favorites,
"Pipeline,"
Comes on
Finishing my scan of the dial,
Lo and behold there's a game!
It's the Mariners at Minnesota
In the top of the first
As I close in on
The snow-capped Beartooth range
Of the Rockies of Montana
At one point
I have to slow way down
Because there's a house being hauled
That stretches across
The entire width of
The 2-lane interstate
I approach the Crazy Mountains
At Big Timber
And turn off onto US 191 north
A stop for gas
At a convenience store
Stocked with chewing tobacco,
Hatchets, and a rack of rifles,
As well as the usual sundries
Lunch at the Grand Hotel downtown,
Where I overhear
A news cast saying
That the northern lights
Were good last night
In northern Montana
And should be again tonight
If skies remain clear,
Which they should
I'd never seen
The aurora borealis
And had always wanted to
I'd wondered
Before starting the trip
If I'd have a chance
To see it
While up in Canada
I'd talked to
A fellow summer student
Who was from Alberta
The last week
At work at Siemens
And he'd said to forget it,
I'd have to be there
In the middle of the winter
To have a chance
Might I see some tonight
Despite the odds?
I'm off
A stop for pictures
And the car antenna
Starts acting up,
Whining and revving non-stop
Even with the engine off
As it won't retract
I'm worried that
This will be a nuisance
But as I get on the road again
I realize that this could be
More than a nuisance
If it runs the battery down
While the engine is off overnight
I decide to see,
When I get a chance,
If removing a fuse
Will take the antenna
Out of commission
Without messing up
Anything else essential
The Twins win 6-2
A fox crosses the road
In front of me
It's in the 60's,
The very big sky is cloudless,
And the afternoon sun
Is beaming in the window on me
As I cruise up to,
Through, and beyond Great Falls,
Listening to good tunes
On the local rock FM station
The Rockies peak up
Over the western horizon
Approaching the Canadian border
At Sweetgrass,
Past Sunburst,
The countryside is dotted
With oil rigs like bobbing birds
The size of small dinosaurs,
While a mile later
A harvester like a great red insect
Churns up grain
And spews it out the other end,
While a mile later
A possum sits in the fast lane
And sniffs a wise decision
Not to cross into our lane,
As I'm writing all this down
And steering with one knee,
Doing 65
I get to the border customs
And the woman in the booth
Is apparently suspicious
Because "The car is so full
Of stereo equipment,"
Hands me a cardboard ticket
With cryptic codes on it,
And directs me to pull over
And go into the building
To see officials
I sit and wait
And then get called in
To meet with a young man
I ask him
What this is all about
And he says that
He'll be checking
My suitability
For entry into Canada
Asking for ID,
Where I live,
What I do,
Where I'm going,
What my arrest record is,
And if I'd ever
Had trouble with
Canadian authorities,
He also seems suspicious
What kind of student
Who is currently registered
Doesn't have to be back at school
By any specified date?
I tell him what kind
He asks me to wait outside again,
While he presumably
Looks me up on
A police computer system
I'm worried that
They'll want to search my car,
Maybe messing up
My carefully packed possessions,
Perhaps even ruining
My film and video
As they ransack in vain,
Not to mention delaying me --
They might even deny me entry
After I'd been so looking forward
To visiting the Canadian Rockies
A while later he comes out,
Hands me back the ticket,
And says I'm all set --
Just present the card
To an officer downstairs
After another wait
I step forward
And anxiously give the card
To the female officer
She looks it over
And says OK,
You're cleared to go ahead
Whew!
The sun has almost set
As I find I have to adjust
To speed limit signs
Specifying kilometers per hour,
But fortunately
My speedometer
Also has metric settings
The first song on my tape
Is by Kim Mitchell,
Who's Canadian,
Which seems appropriate
Bill Nelson comes on with
"He and Sleep were Brothers,"
And the line
"Driving cars that shift no gears
Across the maps of heaven"
Seems to fit nicely with
This sunset moment of movement
Under cruise control
Across this legendary land
Are those glaciers
On the mountains on the horizon?
Come to think of it,
Glacier National Park
Should be over that way...
I make it to Lethbridge
And gas up after a 360-mile tank
(Excellent for Psience)
Now it's time to dine
And the car is sucked in
To a Chinese restaurant
I find and remove the fuse
And though some nicety features
Like the horn,
The dashboard hatchback latch,
And the automatic door locks
Are disabled along with the antenna,
The tunes still work
And nothing critical is knocked out
There're 5 minutes left
On the smorgasbord
So I fill up two plates
And do some serious chowing down
As I pull out
Of the parking lot
The bottom of the car
Bangs badly on the curb
Uh-oh --
Will there be car problems
So far from home?
Leaving Lethbridge
There's a sign for
A highway called "Crowsnest Trail" --
Hmm...
We pass over the Oldman River
While a mile later
There's a sign for
"Moon River Estates" --
Do they realize up here
That these names echo
Some of our most famous
Popular songs?
I suspect not
Pulling into Fort MacLeod,
It's time to bed down
Asking the friendly fellow
With one good hand
At the motel office
About the northern lights,
After he thought
It was pretty nifty that
Today's date is 9/9/92,
He goes to the window
And lo and behold,
There they are!
We go outside
And there's a
Gorgeous green curling cloud
Clearly visible
Even with the ambient light in town
From neon signs and street lights
I don't really spend much time
Checking out the display,
As he's giving me directions
To a point north of town
Where the viewing should be good
I hop in the car
And follow the directions,
Which include going over
A neat green steel
One-lane bridge
I sit for over an hour
Watching these aurorae
Like phantom clouds
That come and go
And shift shape in place,
But none are as clear,
Colorful, or bright
As that first one
That he and I saw,
So there's nothing on video
Calling it a day,
I think that maybe
Because the moon is so bright
The effects aren't
As good as they could be --
Maybe if I wake up
Between moonset and sunrise
I might catch some good ones
Day 12
Something wakes me up at 6
And I dress and go outside --
The lights are still going
But there's nothing spectacular
An hour later I get up
And can't use my shaver
In the bathroom
Though it's a universal voltage model,
But I manage to get it working
Using a bedroom socket,
So I shave at the desk
Wearing my glasses
So I can sort of
See myself in the mirror
Then, as I'm about to
Rinse the shampoo out of my hair
During yet another morning shower,
The smoke alarm goes off
It keeps up for 5 minutes
That seems like an eternity
In the parking lot
As I'm getting ready to leave,
I strike up a chat
With the chap
From the next room
Asking him about
The northern lights,
He says that though
He's a native Albertan
He's only seen them
A few times in his life!
I pull into a parking lot
Near a cafe
Where I'll have breakfast,
And an Indian named Jeff,
Who was crossing the street
With his brother
When I pulled up,
Asks me for some money
For himself and his brother,
Mentioning that
The Indians around here
Aren't very friendly
I give him $5
After a number of cups of
High-octane coffee
And 90 minutes of
Catching up on
This documentation,
It's time to get going
On this, my half-birthday
After all that time in the restaurant,
As I get to my car
And am about to get in,
Who should be walking down the sidewalk
But Jeff, his brother,
And a third Indian
I wave and Jeff walks over
He tells me that
The other Indian
Has found a place for them to stay
And asks me for another handout
I say no
But that maybe someone else
Will help them out later
I've decided not to go
With my original plan,
To go to Edmonton
And then west to Jasper
And down to Banff
So that I wouldn't
Retrace my path --
Instead I'm going to
Head straight for
The Rockies of Banff
From Calgary
And then head up
Through the mountains
To Jasper
And back down again
It's very windy today
Just as it was yesterday in Montana
It seems that most everyone here
Drives with their headlights on
In the daytime
It also seems that
Just about every town here
Features a row of
Several-story angular grain silos
Standing on end
Like wooden starcraft
Parked at a spaceport
(Bill's van's brand is "Starcraft" --
They specialize in
Wood interior touches)
As I'm enjoying
LZ's "In the Light"
I pass a sign for Mazeppa...
The route from
The border to Banff
Is the curious
Canadian highway sequence
4 to 3 to 2 to 1!
There's this humongous
Hundred-mile long cloud
With a scalopped edge
Running north to south
Parallel to
The Rocky Mountain range,
Ending at Calgary
Gas and lunch
Just west of the city,
Where the fellow at
The gas and goodies store
Tells me about
The golf courses
In the Rockies
And particularly emphasizes
Kananaskis
As nice and also cheap
Now I head straight
For the mountains
And pass underneath
The corrugated cloud
It's an absolutely perfect day
I've decided not to
Stop and play golf
At Kananaskis,
Which is just before the mountains
The radio,
When passing through Calgary,
Had said it would be cloudy
And would likely rain
Over the weekend,
So I don't want to lose
This chance to see the mountains
In great weather
I enter the park
For the next 6 hours
It's a paradise on earth
Among major-league majestic mountains
With frequent stops to gape
And film and photograph the scenery
There's one snow-topped alpine peak after another,
Creeks of an uncanny green
I'd only seen in Norway before,
Bright sunshine and blue sky,
A series of waterfalls in a ravine,
A bunch of mountain sheep at one point
And a group of elk at another
It's clouding over
And getting dark
As I approach Jasper
And it's time to
Find lodging for two nights,
Since I intend to
Play golf tomorrow
I've had a feeling
That it will be difficult
To find a vacancy
Also, even if I succeed
It might be quite expensive
Nearing town
I pull into the first lodging I see
The vacancy sign is lit
But there is nothing for tonight
There is half of a duplex cabin
Available for tomorrow night
So I take it
Heading into town,
Several motels and lodges
Either have their
"No Vacancy" signs on
Or have no rooms
Upon inquiry
I finally find one
With a vacancy
And take it
But it's over $100
For the night!
The cabin,
Well outside town,
Is by a river
And is less than $50
Right next door
To the expensive motel
Is a nice restaurant,
So I go there for dinner
After my first early checkin
And evening shower
In a while
The place is packed
And there is a 40 minute wait
But I decide to stick it out anyway
I sit in the bar
Drinking Perrier,
Glancing at a large-screen TV
With US Open tennis on it,
Munching bar snacks,
And jotting this account of Day 12 --
Since it is taking so long each morning
To catch up on
The previous day's documentation,
I figure I'll get
A head start on things
Tonight
A bunch of German hunters
Starts singing loudly
Now for a nice dinner
Sitting at my dinner table
At the far end of the dining room,
With Greek music
Coming out of a speaker behind me,
I can still hear the Germans
The waiter finds me an end cut
And I manage to finish it,
Though for the second night in a row
I've eaten a huge amount --
If I stay in Canada much longer
I'll put on a lot of weight
This story is going on for so long
That I'm finishing the pad
That Alan gave me in Chicago
After I'd used up my first pad --
I never thought that
I'd use up this one too
As some pleasant ballads
Featuring a female singer
Have replaced the Greek music,
I'm waiting for cappucino
So I can finish dinner,
And it's after 10 already!
The caffeinated cappucino
Is quite delicious as dessert
And is a fitting bookend to the day,
Since I started the day
With leaded coffee in Fort Macleod
Maybe the caffeine explains why
I'm writing this at 4 AM
Day 13
Errands and breakfast
In downtown Jasper
I locate the golf course
At Jasper Lodge
And I'm put in the third group
I go back to the car
To get my gear
And by the time I return
My group is already teeing off
I try to quickly get a power cart
But they don't take Mastercard
So it looks like I'll be walking,
Which might be daunting
If the course is hilly,
And might slow my group down
Since it seems that
Everyone is driving
It will save me about $25, though
Introductions are made --
I'm playing with
Dave from Edmonton
And his sister Shigeku,
Who is in from Japan
Along with their aunt
The aunt, Shigeku,
And Dave's son Hisa, 9,
Are in one cart
And Dave says I can ride with him
The signs on the course
Are bilingual,
But not English/French
Like most things in Canada --
Rather they're English/Japanese,
Which seems appropriate
The day turns out to be
Partly sunny and comfortably warm
Though it had been about 40
When I first came into town this morning
Dave tells me how
A week ago it stormed for 3 days
And the wind chill was 18 below
Here in the mountains
The scenery is incredible
And the company is fine
Throughout the round
They all take pictures
And even invite me in
The others clap after my shots
If they deem them well done
Dave buys me lunch
At a food stand
Midway through the course,
Saying "Welcome to Canada"
It turns out that
He's a sushi chef
We finish and say our goodbyes
I head over to Becker's cabins
To check in, shower,
And sit for a bit
By the raging green river
Rushing by right there
A young lady from Colorado
With nice blue eyes
Is sitting nearby
And we strike up a conversation
It's time to have dinner
And then catch a movie in town
I've decided to see
"Death Becomes Her"
With Meryl Streep,
Bruce Willis, and Goldie Hawn
It has clouded over
And is starting to drizzle --
I'm lucky that
The weather held as long as it did
It'll be nice to just relax
And take it easy
Before getting back on the road tomorrow
There are a number of elk,
Including a buck (with antlers),
Hanging out in town
As nice as you please
I can see one out the window
Of the restaurant that I've fallen into
Because of where I had to park
The movie is stupid
I return to the chilly cabin
And fall asleep to
A Blue Jays/Rangers game
Day 14
Into town for breakfast
More elk
Postage and pretzels at Wink's
On Patricia Street
I wait to be seated
At two different restaurants
And leave both fed up with waiting
I end up at the same place
That I'd had breakfast
The morning before,
Though I don't realize it
Until I've already entered
My waitress today
Is the lady who
Directed me to the golf course
Yesterday
And today she directs me
To the tramway up the mountain
I check out sweaters and shirts
But the sweaters are
150 Canadian dollars and up -- too much
Speaking of things Canadian,
My time here has featured
Constant conversion,
Whether it's speed limits in kph,
Money amounts in Canadian dollars,
Or temperatures in degrees Celsius
I find the tram,
Pay and wait,
Just missing a car up,
And finally go up
At the top
It's absolutely freezing --
The gloves Bill gave me
Are a life saver
The view is unbelievable
As expected,
The morning being sunny
In the 180 degrees of panorama
Available from the top
I take lots of photos and footage
And hop on a car going down
After freezing my buns off
Just before we get to the bottom
Some of the passengers
Are bantering about
The wheel from the tram
Having fallen off --
They can see it
Lying on the ground below
I don't pay much attention to them,
But at one point
I do look out and down
And there's this huge blue wagon wheel
Embedded in the ground
This reminds me that,
Come to think of it,
Wagon wheels have been popping up
There's a wagon wheel
By the front wall of
Gina's townhouse,
And another one
Resting along a fence
In Joan's yard
There may have been another one
Somewhere along the journey
But I can't remember for sure
On another note,
Yes, there were Germans
Riding up with me
To match the Germans
Who seem to be nearby
At almost every meal
I've had in Jasper
Now I head south,
Wanting to check out
The Athabasca Falls
If I spot a sign for them
There is a sign
So I pull in
They're quite nice,
Being short but turbulent
Winding my way toward
Another viewpoint,
Three young women
Cross paths with me
In a narrow confine,
Saying hello,
And I recognize them
From the tramcar down
On the road again
And uh-oh, another falls
I check this out
And head onward
Frequent stops
For photos and filming
Occasional snow flurries
While the sun is shining
A stop to fill up my
Green and lavender
Water container
From a roadside waterfall
At some point
In all of this
Big Country
Comes on with
"Prairie Rose,"
Which is fitting
Since Alberta is
"Wild rose country"
The mountains are miraculous --
If any one of them
Were to be transported to
Most places on earth
It would be one of the
Wonders of the world;
But there are dozens,
Probably hundreds of peaks here
And no matter in which direction one looks
There is either a monster mountain right there
Or if there is a gap between peaks
Then there is at least one mountain
In the distance
Visible through the gap
One thing about
The Canadian Rockies
Is that there don't seem to be foothills --
One minute you're in
Flat brown prairie
And the next you're in
Magnificent mountains --
Maybe what foothills exist
Should be called "footmountains"
I bang the bottom of the car again
Pulling back on the road
After pulling off for pictures,
And then I have
A not very appetizing
Cafeteria lunch at Athabasca Glacier
Then it's more of the same driving --
It's a clean job
But somebody's got to do it,
And I'm just the guy for the job
My plan is to pass Banff
And head south to Kananaskis,
Where the good golf course
Is supposed to be,
And which just happens
To also be on my route
Back to the States
And Glacier National Park
I almost pull off at Banff,
Passing a place with vacancies
And an outrageous view,
But keep to my plan
I stop for gas at Canmore
Between us
The attendant and I
Get my hood open
After five minutes of trying --
It's getting to where
It just won't open
I begin to wonder
If not stopping at Banff
Was a big mistake,
For, as soon as I get past Banff,
Which was in early evening sunshine,
The weather gets worse
And I am soon in rain
Under thick grey clouds
Finding the road south,
It continues raining,
Then it starts sleeting
What chance will I have
Of golfing tomorrow?
After a few miles
I can at least tell
That I am surrounded by
Large hills or even possibly
Big mountains
Whose shoulders and heads
Are hidden by thick cloud cover
I find the Kananaskis Village
And pull into the Hotel Kananaskis
There is a vacancy for me
And though it is regularly
175 Canadian dollars
I can have it for 100
The room is elegant --
This is some place,
A fancy resort apparently
I go to take a shower
But there's no shower curtain
In the bathtub area --
Oh, there's a separate shower
Choosing from among
Several places to eat
In the self-contained
Three-hotel village,
I enjoy a fine dinner
Of venison like filet mignon
The only thing I'm interested in
From the mini-bar in my room
Is a deck of souvenir playing cards
I watch a little TV
And then it's lights out
Day 15
Up by 7
And there's a snowstorm on
There are already
A couple of inches
On the ground
Well, I had gotten my wish --
Last night I had wanted it to snow
Now that I've gotten my wish,
What am I gonna do with it?
The evergreens are freshly coated
And it's coming down solidly
A delicious breakfast,
Checkout,
And I'm off into the blizzard,
Trying to get out
Before I get snowed in --
I want to get as far south
And away from this instant winter
As possible
So much for golf today
I head out
And make a turn onto
What I think is Highway 40
(Many of the signs are
Covered with snow and unreadable)
Back to the main route to Calgary,
Highway 1 --
I had debated
Continuing south
On the local highway
To the border
And Glacier Park,
But decided that this
Might be too risky
The road I've turned onto
Has not been plowed yet
I start up it
Becoming more concerned
With each moment
Because the road is icy slush,
Visibility is minimal
In the blinding blizzard,
And the road has started
Up a long incline
I make it to the top
Following in the tire tracks
Of a previous adventurer,
Noticing that no one
Has come the other way yet
There's a sign
For a ski resort,
Which doesn't seem right --
Am I going the wrong way?
All of a sudden
The road ends
At the ski resort --
The good news is
I don't have far
To go back to get back on track
And thank goodness
I couldn't keep going the wrong way
I retrace my path
Back to the wrong turn
And go the other way
And shortly come to Highway 40
It's a harrowing half hour
To get to Route 1
But I make it
The road isn't slush or ice
So I can speed up to
The speed limit of 110 kph
(About 69 mph)
The gloves come in handy again
As I have to clean off the snow
Stuck to the wipers
About half way to Calgary
There's a scary
Surprise slushy stretch
And I'm lucky
To be able to slow down
Without mishap
In Calgary
Stevie Wonder comes on the radio
(I'm rationing the 4's)
Singing about movin' on
To a place in the sun --
This seems very appropriate
As the snow comes down
Further retracing
My entire Canadian route,
The snow coating
Converting cylindrical hay bales
Into giant frosted shredded wheat,
The snow turns to rain
The thick snow that has accumulated
On my frogeye headlights
Is blasted off
By the wind and water
Thrown up by 18-wheelers
Going the other way
I come into Fort MacLeod
After crossing a "Texas gate"
(Metal grating in the road
To keep cattle from entering the highway)
And "rumble strips"
(Grooves in the road
That make a car rattle,
To alert drivers
To an impending required stop)
I get gas
On the way out of town
I again pass
The "Scarlet and Gold" restaurant,
Which reminds me of
The 13th Floor Elevators' song
Then it's lunch in Lethbridge
I stop at a big drug store
To get shoelaces and socks
(One of the shoelaces
To my tan shoes
Had broken last night
When I went to put them on)
And to use up my Canadian cash,
As I would be crossing
To the States momentarily
The clerk who I ask
Leads me to both items,
Which is a lot more
Than clerks most places do
At the counter I'm 22¢ short
And the woman behind me
Makes up the difference
South now to the border,
The rain stopping
And the sun coming out
It's time to worry about
What will happen at customs
Will the U.S. people hassle me?
Maybe they'll make me stop
And submit to questions
Maybe they'll search
My tightly packed car
And ask me for proof of ownership
On all of my items
The fellow does ask a lot of questions
And takes my license
Inside his booth,
Which he didn't seem to do
With the people
Who had preceded me
After being dubious about
The car being so full
If I were just in Canada for vacation
I explain about
Working in New Jersey for the summer
And he reluctantly lets me go
Phew!
Checking the map,
I see that I can still
Try for Glacier Park
By cutting due west from Shelby
Since it's so sunny
I decide to go for it --
Maybe this far south
The Rockies won't be socked in with snow
As I drive along I15 south
I can see what looks like
A massive white cloud zone
Back over the Albertan Rockies
Which isn't clumpy cumulus
But more misty and pure --
That must be the snowstorm
Looking west to the mountains
(Doesn't the western edge
Of Montana
Look like a face?)
It looks like
Some of the range is clear
And some has
Mixed cumulus and cotton candy
Possibly indicative of snow
Should I keep going south
And forget about Glacier Park?
I decide to give the park a go --
Maybe it will be worth it
Once I get there
I head west from Shelby
And for the 70 miles
To the mountains
It looks more and more like
I'm heading right back into
A serious snowstorm
For the second time today
Someone blinks their lights at me
As if signaling that
A policecar is just ahead --
I slow down
And pass a cop right afterward --
Who says the 13th is unlucky?
By the time I get
To the mountains
I'm into the slate grey cloud
And it's snowing great guns
Hating to write off
The miles and time invested
And quit my quest
And retrace my tracks,
Nevertheless I give in
And return to Shelby
Back on I15,
A cotton mist snow cloud
Is a parasite on
A long cumulus strudel
Crossing the sky
I head through Great Falls,
Where they play the song about
"Take the Long Way Home"
By Supertramp --
I'd thought of calling this story
"The Long Way Home"
Early in the trip
And had thought of the song
Then on to Helena and Butte
As it gets dark
Along the way the sky is
Salmon-colored beneath the sun
Though it's hours from sunset
There are a lot of curves
Between Great Falls and Helena
That Bob might enjoy
Doing on a motorcycle
I want to turn
East on I90 from Butte
And make it to Bozeman,
Which would serve as
A good jumping-off point
For Yellowstone and beyond
Tomorrow
Coming down past Butte
In the last light of day
As I reach 700 miles for the day
And 10,000 for the summer
It's beaut-iful,
The orange city lights
Filling the valley
Surrounded by mountains
And the sky showing final colors
Heading east on 90
It's 78 miles to Bozeman,
And at the 75 I've been doing
All the way from Shelby,
It will only take an hour,
But it's already almost 8:30
As the highway climbs
Up and over
The continental divide again
And the moon rises,
I can tell that
This is a beautiful area
That I'm missing
But would have seen in daylight
If I hadn't tried for Glacier Park
The further from Butte I get
The more I want to turn around
And start tomorrow
Taking in the mountain pass
So, I do reverse
And go back to Butte
For the night
Day 16
It's 24 degrees this morning
And my car key gets stuck
In the trunk lock
For a couple of anxious minutes
Breakfast at the
War Bonnet Best Western
Where I spent the night and had dinner
The waitress is a beautiful
Southeast European-looking amazon
Somewhat reminiscent of
Tiny Marjorie
Up and over the divide
At 6393 feet again
On toward Bozeman
But I have been thinking
I still don't have
Photos of cows yet
Though I've seen many herds
So far on the trip
Admiring the snow-capped
Mountains all around,
I see some mixed-color cattle
With great peaks as a backdrop
But can't stop in time
Looking for a turnaround
For "authorized vehicles only,"
I next pass a nice river,
The Gallatin,
And still haven't been able
To turn around
When I spot sheep
And a llama
I finally turn around
Several miles later
Via the next exit
And go back
Turning around again
At the previous exit
To get going in the right direction,
I get back to the cows
And take some great shots
The cows look at me
And one rust-colored teenager
Comes quite close
On its side of
The little water channel
Separating us
Next I stop at the river
And then go on to the sheep
I'm not getting to Yellowstone
But the stops are worth it
I get to the turnoff
To Yellowstone at US 89
And BAM!
I'm in the mountains
The whole way down
To Gardiner
Is beautiful
I'm having a
Buffalo bacon cheeseburger
For lunch
Outdoors at Helen's Corral
In Gardiner
Yes, it's really buffalo meat
The burger is huge
And delicious
And it's windy
So I have to
Keep holding down
My napkins,
Foam burger container,
And pad
At the entrance to the park
There are some
Antelope-like pronghorns
I get to the first locus,
Mammoth Hot Springs
I'm going to head on,
Aiming to catch Old Faithful
And the Tower Falls
At the Grand Canyon
Of the Yellowstone
And it's already after 2,
But I decide to check out
Mammoth Hot Springs
As quickly as I can,
Just in case
There's something worth seeing
There are some neat
Sulphurous water terraces
And some more animals
Then I head down
Towards the falls and canyon
And under the sky-eating cloud
That is waiting in the southwest
Unfortunately,
All these interesting sights
Keep coming up along the way,
Including bison and burnt trees
And herds of boulders
Grazing peacefully
On grassy hillsides
By the time
I have walked
Down a zig-zag path
To the foot of Tower Falls
And done the same thing
At the Lower Falls
At the Grand Canyon
Of the Yellowstone,
(After being headed off
At 8800' Dunraven Pass in between,
Sitting there for half an hour
Because a couple of grizzlies
Were by the road up ahead,
Finally chased by
Being fired on with rubber bullets)
It's almost dark
And I find out that
There are good views
Of the Lower Falls
From the south rim
The geysers will have to wait, too,
Let alone the Tetons
I will just have to
Find a place to stay
In the area
And come back tomorrow
The trouble is, where?
The park map
Lists lodging locations
Within the park
So I try the one
Where I am,
The Canyon Village
It's defunct
Stopping to fill my tank,
I ask the attendant,
Who recommends
West Yellowstone,
A town just outside the park
With lots of motels
I expedite
The 40 miles
To the town
Over dark park back roads
Helped by the only station
I can find on AM or FM
That is audible
And playing music I like,
And it's a surprise visit
From my old sidekick, KOMA,
The oldies station
In Oklahoma City
(See 'Dona 'Zona)
In Oklahoma City
It's still in the high 70's
Though it's 9:30 Central Time
While it's in the 40's here
And dropping fast
I'm concerned about
Finding a vacancy
(Sound familiar?)
Because a woman
Who I'd chatted with
At the Lower Falls
Had said something about
Vacancy problems in the area
There are scads of motels
But every single one is full
At one, the fellow
Says there's nothing
In the next town, either
He also says in passing that
Pretty soon he might rent out
The office that we're standing in
I note that there are
Two twin beds in an L
In a corner of the office
I say "How about now?"
We work it out
But I have to pay cash --
$32 including tax,
Which is $100 less than
What I'd paid
The first night in Jasper
He even makes a shower
And a bathroom available
Along with towels and soap
And recommends
A non-smoking restaurant,
Where I go after my shower
And have a delightful dinner
Then it's cable TV
And lights out --
Except, try as I might,
I can't find a switch
For the ceiling light
I finally knock on the inner door
And the switch is inside
The owner's quarters
Day 17
At 5 AM
I have to go real bad
So I get dressed
And go to find
The lavatory
Behind a nearby building
It's a clean, modern,
But unheated washroom
And it's open to the outdoors
And the door has been
Open all night
It's in the 20's
And it's a good thing
I don't have to
Drop my drawers
(A woman would be in a bind)
I'm itching to get going
So by 6 I'm up and out,
Only brushing my teeth
And combing my hair,
Forgoing any other rituals
Breakfast at a place
Open as early as 6
And now back into Yellowstone by 7
I can't find
My park receipt
From yesterday,
Good for 7 days --
Would I have to pay $10 again?
No one is there
At the toll plaza-like entrance,
But one lane is open for entry,
So I'm in
Another myriad of pictures --
Bison and elk,
Geysers and pools,
Lichen and leaves,
Waterfalls and cascades,
Chipmunks and ravens
Burnt and baby trees,
Stumps and flowers,
Mountains and lakes,
Magic and shastoid clouds
(Clouds associated with Mt. Shasta --
Very smooth, rounded, sculpted),
With another sky-eating overcast
Taking over as the day progresses
It's back to
The Grand Canyon
Of the Yellowstone,
Both the north and south rims,
Then the Virginia Cascades,
Then the geysers,
Including Old Faithful
There are various
Spontaneous stops
Along the way,
E.g. Firehole Falls,
Where numerous chipmunks
Come up to warily take morsels
From people's hands
And then quickly scamper away
To perch on rocks
On an almost vertical wall
While they munch their snack
A couple of ravens
Are also accepting food
I get to Old Faithful
5 minutes after a spume
So I'll have to wait an hour
But it's 2:30
And I need to eat lunch anyway
The first place there
Turns out to be closed
And I walk way over
To the Old Faithful Inn,
Which is serving lunch til 3
According to
A fellow at the first place
They'd stopped lunch at 2:30
But a snack bar there is open
After standing in line
For a few minutes
It dawns on me that
They might only take cash,
Which I'm not carrying --
Sure enough,
I have to walk
All the way
Back to the car
But there is another snack shop
Near where I'm parked --
Closed for the season
Yet another snack shop is open
And I go for it
It's a joke,
The "cooks" microwaving
Foil-wrapped food
Now it's time
To sit and wait for
Old Faithful to blow
I get one of the last
Front row seats
And enjoy watching
Shastoid clouds
The geyser starts to get active
And I snap a quick shot
With my pocket 35
By the time I
Start camcording
The water is already
At full height
And I'm kicking myself
For not catching
The whole process on video,
Especially since
I'd thought about
Doing just that
It only lasts a minute
And it's over
I can finally leave
Yellowstone
And get on my way south
To the Tetons and beyond
A vehicle passes
Going the other way
With a plate
I'd noticed yesterday
But couldn't figure out:
DF NTRP
Ah, it just needs a
Different interpretation
The clouds keep shastoiding
All afternoon
And the Tetons are neat
But the sun is behind them
So they're mostly silhouettes
Just after I do some
Deep thinking about life
And recall that
Everything works out
And relax thanks to this,
A cloud shaped like a dove
And translucent aqua in color
Catches my eye
For the next half hour
Clouds near the sun
Take on magical rainbow fringes --
One whole round rainbow cloud
Becomes concentric rings of color
These clouds keep reminding me of
My fractal blob world shapes
Worried about lodging
Approaching the Jackson Hole area,
I stop in one lodge
But they're booked up
Closer to town
Another place has a room
With two queen beds for $75,
But the guy and I agree
That there may be
Something more appropriate
Still available in town
I try again
At the first place
I hit in town
And the fellow has
A cabin for a family for $58
But I can have it
I take it
It's excellent --
Two bedrooms and a bath
I'm next door for dinner,
At which point I look up
And notice that
Some of the ceiling lighting
Is in the form of wagon wheels
With lamps around the rims --
That's when it hits me that
The name of the place is
The Wagon Wheel
Now I recall that the
Ceiling light in the motel office
Which I couldn't find the switch for
Was a wagon wheel, too
After dinner
I walk back
To the motel
And notice,
Besides the fact that
The "no vacancy" sign is on now,
The name of the place is
The Wagon Wheel Village Motel...
I walk the several blocks
Into downtown Jackson
(Also called Jackson Hole
And Jackson's Hole),
Hoping that there will be
A number of stores
Where I can browse
For flannel shirts
And maybe a sweater
The good news is that there are,
But the bad news is that
Almost all of them are closed
I go in a couple
That are still open
And buy two shirts
At this gewgaw and jimcrack mecca,
Which otherwise I probably
Wouldn't have gone in --
They do have quite a
Selection of shirts,
And there are a few
That I might have bought,
But I'm looking forward to
Checking out many other stores
Tomorrow morning when they're open
There's an excellent
Indian artifacts store,
The War Bonnet,
And next door to it
A Pendleton store,
Which I anticipate
Will be a gold mine
Of great flannel shirts
When I get to go in tomorrow
It's bedtime
Day 18
I'm torn between
Getting on my way home
And staying in town
Two more days
To catch the start of
The local art festival
I decide to leave,
Though this has little to do
With the fact that
My supply of special vitamins
Is steadily dwindling
Breakfast next door
A guy asks
If he can join me
Since the place is busy,
Tables are at a premium,
And there's a line
I say OK,
But I'll be writing
So I won't be real social
He says no problem,
He'll be reading the paper
Once the food arrives
He starts talking
And motors on
For the next half hour,
Trying to fit in
His whole life story
It's time to go
Back into town
To do some
Serious shirt shopping
First I get Ronnye
A very nice Indian tile
For her birthday
At the War Bonnet
While waiting for
The Pendleton store to open
I get a nice sweater
With beautiful blue in it
At another unlikely store
The Pendleton store
Has some nice flannels
But I end up getting
An exquisite wool blanket
To be shipped to me
I finish up with
Three more fine flannels
That I'd seen last night
At the gewgaw palace
I'm back on the road,
Taking 191
Headed all the way to
Green River, Utah
Due to a revelation
To do Delicate Arch again,
This time properly,
By hiking right up to it
An early stop
To photograph
Some aspens turning yellow
Produces a bonus of
A bright blue dragonfly
Posing long enough
For me to snapture it
Out of the wooded mountains
And across boring plain
Til mid-afternoon --
It is very quiet
And peaceful, though,
Each time I get out
On the high plain
Just before lunch
I finish a tape,
And I'm rationing again,
So I scan for
A radio station --
One comes in
Loud and clear,
KRKK in Rock Springs,
And plays great oldies
(Sometimes rock springs
Refreshingly
From the void of
Stationlessness)
The first full song is
"Get Off of My Cloud" --
The last full song on the tape
Had been "Highwire,"
Also by the Stones,
And that had been the first
Stones song in many tapes
GOOMC is appropriate
Since somebody
Is tailgating me
As Mick sings
"Don't hang around
'Cause two's a crowd!"
Lunch in Rock Springs, Wyoming
It seems that
The soup of the day
Everywhere in these states
Is vegetable beef
As I pull onto the highway
And see the sign for Green River,
Creedence is blasting on the radio --
Also appropriate
Except it turns out to be
The wrong Green River,
The one in Wyoming,
But fortunately
It's still the right way anyway
There are some
Interesting round bales
Not only laid end to end
Like earlier tootsie rolls,
But starting to
Blend into each other,
Conjuring giant caterpillars
Rold Gold is getting old --
I've been snacking on
This brand of
Convenience store pretzels
While driving
During the whole trip
Cruising on US 191
At 7000 feet
In the afternoon sun --
The only real clouds
Appearing as of Rock Springs
Curiously, I'd come
Within 5 miles of Idaho
At West Yellowstone
And now within 5 miles
Of Colorado
KRKK plays "Pipeline"
Crystal clearly
Into Utah
And to Flaming Gorge Dam
After gas at Duchesne
It's getting dark
And for an hour
Up to Price,
Where I'd thought
I'd quit for the day,
It's lightninging
Under ominous dark skies
To the south,
Just where I'm headed
This doesn't concern me
So much for the ride ahead
As for what it will
Be like tomorrow,
When I hope to hike
Up to Delicate Arch
And with any luck
Get to Escalante
And hike a canyon
I arrive at Price --
It's 8:30 and I'm tired
I pull over
Just before the first exit
To try to catch
Some of the lightning
On the camcorder
I catch some fuzzy flashes of light
But the jagged bolts
Won't cooperate and appear
About to pull off the exit
A billboard
Right there all that time
Catches my eye --
A Comfort Inn
With a restaurant
Lies 6 miles ahead
That sounds good
And the closer I get
To Green River
The less distance
I'll have to go
To get to the arch early
The Comfort Inn is full
And I'm already past Price
So I keep going,
Dog tired,
Into rain now,
All the 50+ miles
To Green River
Passing several
Less than glamorous
Motels with vacancies,
I try one nice one
But it's full
The other nice one
Has a big room
With two beds
And I take the room
The bathroom
Flourescent light
Doesn't come on
More than a dim glimmer
I think about
Asking for another room
But am too tired to hassle it
Inspired, I discover
That the overhead sunlamp
In the bathroom
Is quite bright,
So that'll do in a pinch
I start the shower
And even after several minutes
The water does not get hot,
So I take a quick cold shower
It's 10:30
And I want to
Just jump in bed,
Being bleary-eyed,
But I feel I need to eat,
And nearby there's a restaurant
Open 24 hours
So, here I am
Having a light meal
Of vegetable beef soup
And a grilled cheese sandwich
It's 11:11
And time to hit the hay
There's quite a contrast
Between the temperature tonight
And the last several nights --
I'm walking around outside comfortably
In a short-sleeved shirt
And have the A/C on in the room
Because it was stuffy,
While up until now
It's been arctic at night,
Dipping into the 20's
It was quite warm, though,
Maybe 70,
During the day in Wyoming
Day 19
Breakfast next door
There's a light-gold moth
That has found its
Final resting place
On the roof of my car,
And the odometer reads 74474.4
As I get in to get going
It's a hot, dry, sunny day
I'm on my way
To the Arches park
I arrive at the park at 11
And hike up the trail
To Delicate Arch
In a little over an hour
There's even a hole
In one rock wall
That I climb up to
And when I look through it
I get my first glimpse
Of the arch
The arch is outstanding,
Though there's barely a moment
When there aren't people
Right at its base
And thus in any picture taken
Hiking back down,
At one point I stop
To photograph purple flowers
And just as I snap the picture
A young woman walks by behind me
And apologizes
For possibly affecting the shot
She's Asian
We end up finishing
The way down together
At one point
She asks me
How old I am --
When I tell her I'm 42
She's astonished --
She says I look 30
It turns out that
She's 24 and from Taiwan
Her husband,
Who's just ahead
On the trail
With another Asian,
Is attending
The University of Utah
I remember them all
From when I was
Up on top
At the arch
We say so long
And I'm off to try
To get to Escalante
And get some lodging
For the night,
Since there isn't going to be
Enough day left for a canyon hike
On my way back up 191
To get to I70
I get a ticket --
Bummer
Afterward I wonder when
I'll be cheerful again --
It seems a long way off
Back on I70
And a stop for lunch
At 3:30
In Green River again
The table I'm at
Has a splendid view
Of the Green River
Right outside the window,
A bridge also right there,
And a butte behind the bridge
The elderly folks
At the next table
Talk about a beaver
Swimming in the river
But I can't see it
West on I70,
There's a sign
Warning of eagles
On the highway
Way up a long incline,
Stuck behind a truck,
Cones keeping us in one lane,
I finally can't stand it
And whip between cones
Into the right lane
And slalom back
Into the left lane
Ahead of the truck
Several thousand feet higher
It's like the nearby
Island in the Sky --
Prairie/pasture up on top,
Little evergreens,
Utah buttes and mountains
Off in the distance
I pull into a scenic overlook
There are a few people there
I'm snapping a picture,
One lady almost in it,
And tell her
Not to worry,
She isn't messing it up
Her male companion
Has climbed out
Onto precarious rocks
She and I
Start talking
And hit it off
She takes my picture
Her brother Scott returns
We chat by their car
I tell them
I'm going to Escalante and why --
They're not familiar with it
They're headed to Pasadena
Via Bryce and Zion --
She's seeing Scott to Caltech
She's also a Ph.D. student,
In molecular biology
At Catholic University
In Washington, D.C.
We say goodbye
And as I'm walking away
I call back
"What's your name?"
She answers "Eileen Kelly"
She asks me mine
I walk back to them
And give her my number
In case she wants to look me up
We talk some more
I show her where Jasper is
They offer me apple juice
And other things
And ask if there's anything
That I need
Half-jokingly I say that
Yes, I need chap-stick
Because my lips
Are really peeling
From sunburn
She has two kinds
And gives me
A stick of Lip Healer
To take with me
I say goodbye again
As I drive off
I'm wondering if they'll
Go to Bryce and Zion
Via Escalante --
They had both
Expressed interest
In my description
Of the slot canyons
I'm hoping that
They'll catch me
So that I can
Show them how
To get there
In case they're
Interested
The farther I get
The stronger I wish
I'd brought that up
Explicitly
I really like Eileen
And her brother
Seems like a good guy
I keep looking behind
For a white car
Catching up to me
And once there was
A false alarm
It's finally time
To turn off I70
Onto Utah 72
No white car
Oh well
I start up
This wonderful
Deserted highway
Through wooded mountains
Oh, if they only knew
Plus, this route
Goes through
The incredible
Dixie National Forest
And it's on the way
To Bryce and Zion anyway
A while later
I pull over
To take some pictures,
Having passed a sign
Saying "Paradise Valley"
With two birds on top,
One of which flew off
As I drove by
And its wings were bright blue --
A bluebird of happiness?
As I park I see
A number of cows
Right there at the road,
Not fenced in or anything
I get out
And I take some pictures
And a car drives up --
A white car --
It's Eileen and Scott!
They had talked it over
And decided to go
Via Escalante
They pull over,
Get out,
And walk over to the cows
We spend a while there
And they say
They'll follow me
I say great
But explain that
I might go slow at times
And might stop
To take pictures
No problem --
We'll leapfrog
I start out
And soon pull over
They stop to chat
And then go on ahead
Many miles later
As the sun is setting,
There they are,
Pulled off on the left
With Scott taking Eileen's picture
With redlit buttes behind her
I go on ahead
And wind my way up
Blue Bell Knoll
And into the Dixie Forest
It's just about dark
I come around a bend
And there's a nice
Sunset scene
I stop and camcord
And a car pulls up --
I wonder who this could be?
Yes, it's Eileen and Scott
I follow them
For many more miles,
Down out of the forest,
Through Boulder,
And up until
10 miles to go
To Escalante,
When they're stuck
Behind a truck
Going up a hill
I wait a while
And then pass them both
Driving along now
With them a ways behind,
I notice stars
Through the windshield
Looking out my window
I'm astonished to see
The Milky Way
Clearly visible
Thinking it might be an illusion,
A reflection on the glass
From my dashboard lights,
I turn them off
And it's still there
I pull over and get out
And Wham!
I have never seen
The Milky Way
Anywhere near this clearly
There are no city lights,
No pollution,
And no moon
To detract from
Visibility
Soon Eileen and Scott approach
And I flag them down
Eileen can't get over it either
She points out
A satellite
We finally get to town
Around 9:30
And I stop at
The first motel I see
Which has a vacancy indication
They have both
A room for one person
And another with 2 beds
This is very lucky --
I had been worried about
Finding any vacancies at all,
Let alone exactly what we want
We freshen up
And then seek dinner
There is nothing!
We walk several blocks
Up to one place that
The motel lady says
Might be open,
But they've closed
Walking back,
A policeman pulls up
And chats for a while
We decide to pool
What munchies and beverages
That we have in our cars
Eileen says she wishes that
She had some tea
And I tell her that
I have some somewhere
I go through every box,
Some twice,
Scott holding a flashlight,
But can't find the tea
Giving it one more try,
I notice a plastic bag
That's tucked into a niche
Formed by the back seat,
The floor, and a CD box,
But which has been
In plain sight
The whole time
As soon as I look at it
I know that the quest
Is finally over
Sure enough,
The tea is in the bag
Eileen is very happy
We sit around in their room
And snack and talk
For a couple of hours
And then it's time for bed
Day 20
I'm up early,
Catching up on
Yesterday's
Post-lunch developments
I meet up with the Kelly's
For breakfast
At the Circle D,
Which we'd walked to
For naught last night,
And which serves decaf
Out of a dark pot
And regular out of a red one,
After I leave my car
To have the hood release fixed
And Scott tries
Unsuccessfully
At both mechanics in town
To get his car
Greased and oiled
Right away
We part reluctantly
Since I'm headed for
The Escalante canyons
Down 26 miles of dirt road
And the Kelly's opt to
Head for Bryce for
More directly accessible hiking
Due to stricter time constraints
My car is ready
Back up the road
To the Hole-in-the-Rock turnoff
It's 26 miles of
Packed dirt road
With occasional washboards
And ruts and gullies
And takes an hour
Going 35,
15 the last stretch,
Where it's two grooves
And a mound in the middle
And I need to drive
With one wheel on the mound
And the other on
The side of the road
So I don't wipe out
The bottom of my car
Some people at the trail head
Mention that they've seen
Rattlesnakes today
It's still overcast
As I start down the rocks
To the base of the wall
And the sandy path
It's just as well
That it's overcast
Since I got a lot of sun yesterday
And the bottoms of my calves
Are burnt painfully red
I get to a wide open area
That the trail book talks about
And see a big crack to the left
Walking up to it
It turns out to be a slot --
Jackpot after only 15 minutes
(I realize a funny thing
As I sit here in Nevada
Writing this --
Slots and jackpots...)
I walk through
The narrow canyon,
The scalloped walls towering
As much as 100 feet
On both sides,
The slot curving
One way or the other
Every few yards
It starts to drizzle
If it rains hard
There could be a flash flood
Down the bottom of the slot
I keep going,
Following the twists and turns,
And the bottom is narrowing
Until it's only inches wide,
So I have to clamber through
With a foot edged
Into the crack at the bottom
Or work my way over rocks
Filling the bottom
I finally reach a point
Where the walls lower
To only ten feet or so
And I can climb up and out
Phew!
I'm relieved to be
Out of the slot
With the rain continuing,
And start walking back
Along the canyon
But this time
At the top of the wall
I reach an impasse --
The heights I'm on stop dead
With an uncrossable chasm
In all directions
I have no choice but to backtrack,
Climbing back down into the slot
And retracing my path
Back through the canyon
I finally get to the beginning
And work my slow, tired, wet way
Back up to the top of the rocks
And my waiting car
I spend quite some time
Cleaning the red mud
Out of the network of canyons
On the soles of my hiking boots
The rain lets up
And a patch of blue sky
Actually starts to grow --
Now it gets nice!
There's no way
I'm going back down for more
This is just as well, too,
Because as I drive back
Up the dirt road,
Behind me the sky
Becomes charcoal grey
I finally make it back
Into the town of Escalante,
Enjoying some great tunes
Along the rough route,
And I stop for lunch
At the Circle D --
It's 4:30 already
The Essex sing
"Easier Said Than Done"
And I think of Eileen
Finally on the road,
I head toward Bryce
Only a few minutes out,
Scanning for rainbows
Via my rearview mirror,
Since conditions seem right,
Sure enough I see one
I pull over, get out,
And photograph
This beautiful, sharp 'bow
A little further
Up the road
I get out again
And the rainbow
Is even bigger,
Arcing across the valley
Containing the town
That I'd just departed,
A fitting farewell
From Escalante
I pass by Bryce
And history starts
Repeating itself --
I get to Zion
Just before sunset,
Just like last September
I keep going
And as it gets dark
I'm treated to
Great lightning displays
Lighting up
Large cloud formations
A bit later
I stop to film this
The sky is orange
At the horizon
And I'm amazed by
A whole row of
Lightning storms
Lighting up randomly
Like Christmas tree lights,
One every few seconds
Somewhere along
The southern horizon
Back on the road,
It's dark now
As I finally reach
St. George and I15
The lightning display continues,
Now startlingly augmented
By the Milky Way
Very visible
In the clear night sky
Above the stormy horizon
These conditions
Remain in effect
For the 100 miles
Through Arizona
And into Nevada
I run out of cassettes
And the radio
Plays excellent oldies
The temperature
At about 9 PM
Is 85° --
What a contrast with
Just a week ago
I aim for Glendale
With tired eyes,
And pull into
The same motel
I'd stayed in
Last year
After passing Zion
I have dinner
In the same sleazy cafe
Next to the motel,
Driven batty by
An annoying woman
Talking nonstop on the phone
In her cafe booth
Two tables away
The only positive thing
About dinner
Is the moth on the table
Keeping me company
Day 21
I check out
In the combination office/cafe
And walk over to pick a booth
To have breakfast in
And decide to blow this place off
And go somewhere else instead
I fill my tank
And try the hood release --
It works
It's a good thing, too,
Since I'm headed into
The desert today,
The high is going to be 98,
And there's almost no coolant
Left in the reservoir
I stop for breakfaast
At a huge casino
Near the Nevada-California border
There are 100's of slot machines
Filling a massive room
And dozens of plush booths
In the restaurant
I'm back on the road
And "Shop Around"
And "Candy Girl"
Play back to back
On a local oldies station
There's a van on fire
In the other direction
A Nevada plate reads:
"KNOWING"
It hadn't originally been
On my itinerary,
But since it's Saturday,
A trip into LA
And some music shopping
Seems like a good idea
As I see the San Gabriel Mountains
It occurs to me
To take the road
Up through them,
It being early
On a sunny, warm day
I head up into the mountains
And stop a few times
For pictures
At one point
I'm surprised to see
Snow on the ground,
Almost a mini-glacier
In a depression
On the north side
Of a mountain,
So I pull over
A number of teenagers
Are skiing down
Grooves they've made,
With both feet in straps
Of small skiboards
I climb down
Inside a gap
Between the several-foot high snow
And the mountain side
To take pictures
And on the climb back out
My rascal lens cap
Gets knocked off
And falls down into
The bottom of the crevice
I'm just able to reach it,
So I'm relieved to retain it
This is the lens cap that
I'd thought I'd lost
On my trip with Tobey
To Washington state in '89
In Seattle
We'd even bumped into
One of the crew
From the ferry to Canada
And had him check into
Any lens caps found,
To no avail
It eventually turned up
After the trip
In the bottom of my back pack
As I'm about to leave
Up pulls a caravan of Corvettes
I finish the mountain route
And descend into Hollywood,
Seeing a good
California plate,
"WILDRNS I,"
Along the way
I need to eat
So I have lunch
At a sidewalk stand
In a sleazy section of L.A.,
Around the corner from Aron's,
The tune store I'm headed for
I spend three hours
Successfully mining in Aron's,
Scoring, for example,
The new Stewart and Gaskin CD "Spin"
In the used CD bin
After willing that this happen
Leaving at 7
I get stuck in
Two bumper-to-bumper
Traffic jams
Before hitting
Free-flowing conditions
Stopping for
A delicious
Chicken melt slam
At Denny's
In San Clemente,
I finally arrive home
At about 10:30 PM
To find everything
In its place
And notes from Renate
And her daughter Bettina,
And a gift mug from them
They had stayed
In my condo
A few weeks ago
Well,
The journey is over,
About 7000 miles
And three weeks
Of adventure
Across the continent
It'll be nice to see
All the photographs
And video footage
From the trip
Now begins
The adjustment to
Being home again
And picking up
Where I left off
With my work
And my social life