MJ Between NJ and LJ (Peace of my Mind)

 

Day 0

 

When I wake up

This morning

I don't know that

I'll be starting

My long trip home

Tomorrow

 

My plan as of this point

Is to visit Gina in Maryland

Tomorrow, Sunday,

And then return to Princeton Monday

To have my car serviced

And to pack,

And then leave on Tuesday,

September 1st

 

Early in the summer

I'd hit on the idea of

Detouring to

The Canadian Rockies

On the way from

New Jersey to La Jolla

 

Aware that I'll be

Passing through Chicago

And thinking about how

I've been accelerating

Contacting friends and relatives

As my summer stay in NJ

Is coming to a close,

I realize that

My old pal Bill Bernath

Lives in Chicago

 

I decide to call him

And see if a visit

Will work out

 

I try calling

The number I have

In my address book

But this doesn't work,

Not that surprisingly,

Since it's been a few years

 

I have to get Bill and Cindy's number

From Cindy's relatives in NJ,

Which I've done before

 

Bill is home

And looks forward to

Seeing me Thursday evening

 

Thinking about getting in touch with

Joan in North Carolina,

I hesitate

 

It wouldn't make sense

To go there after

Returning from Maryland,

Yet if I were to

Go from Maryland to NC

I'd in effect be

Starting my trip tomorrow,

Two days early

 

I have to see Gina tomorrow, too,

Since she has no other day

Which she can spend with me

 

Deciding that if

A visit with Joan

Is in the cards,

I'll manage

To pack somehow today

And move out as of tomorrow

 

I will have to

Work things out

With my landlord

And will forego

Having my car serviced,

But that will be OK

 

Joan is in

And is excited

At the prospect

Of a visit

 

I will go to North Carolina Monday

From Maryland

 

Now looking at my map

And seeing what kind of route

I might take

From North Carolina

To Chicago,

I realize that

I will probably

Pass through Kentucky,

Where Mike Adams lives

 

Mike is in

And enthusiastic about

A visit on Wednesday,

Giving me an extra day

To kill in NC

 

I try getting in touch with

Tim Satterly,

To see if I can

Squeeze in a visit

This afternoon,

Between lunch with

Steve and Marion Sussna

And dinner with

Bob and Deb Sussna,

But I have to leave a message

On Tim's machine

 

I pack as much as I can

In between lunch and dinner

And after dinner

And will have to finish

Before I leave for Gina's

Tomorrow

 

At lunch in Lawrenceville

I am told that

My cousin Alan

Is living in Chicago,

So I get his info

 

When I get home after lunch

I have a message from Tim

 

I try calling

But he is out again

 

I never do get to see

Him and Jane and their kids

And it's too bad

I've waited so long to call

 

The same thing happened with

Paulette and Richard and their kids

Within the last week

 

I meet Bob and Deb for dinner

At Marcella's in Stockton,

A block from the bridge

Over the Delaware

To Pennsylvania

 

I'd seen my landlord

During the day,

So we're in sync

About my leaving Sunday

 

 

Day 1

 

I finish packing,

Say so long to my landlords,

Bill and Joan Ellis,

And set off to see Gina,

Trying to get there

For a late lunch

As we'd originally planned

 

I arrive at Arnold,

Present Pern to

The Warren gals,

And camcord Gina and Alexis,

 

Gina meets Junior

And I meet General

 

Gina and I go

To Annapolis,

Although Alexis

Can't make it

 

We have trouble parking,

Finally adventurously

Parallel parking in

Gina's new Diamante

 

We have lunch

In the open air,

Me sipping Gina's

Black bean soup,

Napkins flying

At our neighbors

 

We traipse around town

On a beautiful day,

Visiting the Nature Company,

Where there are drawers

Full of neat minerals,

But they're out of marbles

 

A little art gallery

Is serving snacks

 

A historical house

Has a plaque on the wall

Bearing the name Robert Johnson

 

I tell Gina that

I need to show her

My binder of poems

 

We walk on

Big chunks of stone

Lining the water

At the Naval Academy

 

We near the end of the dock

And Gina's saying something about

When she's 80

She wants euthanasia

So she won't have to

Live with pain

And a deteriorating mind,

So I mention how

On the drive in

I'd thought about saying

"What are you doing

For the next 40 years?"

And how she'd be 80

In 40 years

 

She says she might consider

Going on living at 80

Depending on how things are going

 

We sit for a long time,

Dangling our feet over the edge,

And talk of many things,

Including letting one's partner

Be themself,

Of being open and equals,

Of the difficulty sometimes

Of telling them what

They don't want to hear,

And also how it can be hard

To tell 'em what

They do want to hear!

 

Back to the townhouse

After recrossing

The Severn Scenic River

 

Gina and Alexis

Both think that

The August Gilbert Williams

Picture of the princess

("Pool of Light")

Is beautiful

 

Gina makes some calls

'Cause she'd been beeped

While we were in town

And checks in with Alexis,

Who's starting 8th grade

Tomorrow

 

Both ladies love my

Computer art bookmarks

And take two each

 

We look at my

Computer art portfolio

And they both think that

The images are gorgeous,

Oo-ing and ah-ing repeatedly,

Which does my heart good

 

We look at Gina's photos

From camping and

Massachusetts

 

I see Donna Reed

In Gina again,

Like I did in May,

And today I see

Mimi Rogers in her, too

 

Gina sees my poetry pile

And asks for a copy

 

She reads 'Woodwork

About Robert Johnson

 

We have Chinese delivered

And Alexis tells me about

The courses she'll be taking

 

Somehow we get on

The subject of

The periodic table

Of the elements

And Alexis asks about

Her egg roll,

So I say "Sure,

Egg roll atoms"

 

Then it's time to

Say so long

 

Gina sees me out to Psience

And we chat and hug and part

 

Gina confides that

Alexis likes me,

Which does my heart good, too,

And we talk about Junior some more

 

I head into town to

The Prince George

Bed and breakfast,

Which Gina had set up for me

 

 

Day 2 

 

Morning and buffet breakfast

Outside in the backyard

 

Writing down Day 1

 

I call Gina at work

To say goodbye

 

I drop off Enya for her

Behind a big plant pot

By the front door

 

Well into Virginia --

Gina must still be with me

'Cause there's a sign for

US 301 and Kenly

 

US 301 is the route

Gina suggested

And that I took

For much of the way

To Annapolis,

And Gina once lived on

Kenli Lane in Brielle

 

A maroon 18-wheeler cab

With a high curving flange

Reminds me of

A hornless triceratops

 

Now down in North Carolina,

A black guy

In a black Isuzu pickup

Passes

 

I notice he has a

Roughly spherical crystal

The same size as mine

Hanging from

His rearview mirror

Like mine does from mine

 

He slows down some

And a bit later

I pass him on the right

And honk, wave,

And point out my crystal

 

He laughs and waves

And falls behind

And out of sight

 

An hour later

He passes me again

And ends up

A few hundred feet ahead

 

I can see his crystal

Glinting sparks of color,

At one point

Even through an

Intervening car's

Windshield and back window

 

He falls behind again

But 20 minutes later

Here he comes,

And passes me one more time

To disappear up ahead,

But not before

I catch some pretty glints

 

Occasionally I pass

A patch of ivy-smothered trees

That reminds me of

A Virgil Finlay picture of

Snow-covered mountains

With bogeyman faces,

Or of furniture

In a vacant house

Draped in leafy green sheets

 

I wonder if this is

The infamous kudzu vine

That is plaguing the South?

 

At some point

Earlier in the day

I had thought about

Coming across a "Sculf Road" --

Well, sure enough,

I pass a "Scull Road" now

And just past it

I see a black man

Sitting outside

With his profile

Turned to me

 

As I pass

He raises his hand

And sort of waves

Though there's no one else there,

So I wave out

The right hand window

Without taking my eyes

Off the road

 

I finally make it to Joan's

And meet little Jock

For the first time --

He's gonna be 4

In about a week

 

Pow-wow the dog

Is kept in a room

So I don't get to meet her

 

We go out to dinner,

Catching up on old times

 

Jock has me hold his hand

As we walk to

The restaurant,

And later to

The Winn-Dixie,

And I'm flattered

 

Then we relax

Back at the house

 

The TV's on

And in my split attention

Between chatting

And glancing at the tube

I catch sight of a truck

With the name "Bill Ellis"

In large letters

Along the side --

Recall that

My landlords in Princeton

Were Bill Ellis

And his wife Joan

 

 

Day 3 

 

I'm sitting in Joan's kitchen

Documenting Day 2

Before Joan and Jock get up

 

Out the back window

Are lots of potted plants

And a bunch of bird feeders

Of all shapes and sizes

 

A cardinal lands

On the ground nearby

 

Joan and Jock

Make their appearance

And we talk about

High school and mockingbirds

 

Jock's wearing

My watch again

As he watches me write

 

He gives us stickers

For our arms --

A sneaker, a truck, a telephone

 

Pancakes at Shoney's,

A stop at the tune store

Across the street

So I can replace my Enya,

And I also get

The Little Games sessions

2-CD set,

Yet another

Lost Yardbirds album

 

Then it's back to the house

 

We check on Pinehurst

Golf club procedures

And then head into

Southern Pines

So Joan can make

A haircutting appointment

 

A nice plate

On a car parked in town

Reads "INHEAVEN"

 

Jock and I

Spend an hour

In the local bookstore

Looking at books about

The teenage mutant ninja turtles,

Young Indiana Jones,

And James Bond, Jr.,

And we find Waldo in puzzles

 

I'm anxious to play golf

But as the hours slip by

It doesn't seem to be in the cards

 

Joan and I enjoy

A good lunch

Where we both have

Grilled cheese

With bacon and tomato

And salad

 

On the ride back home

I'm feeling oppressed as

Joan is going on about how

Everybody's phone is tapped,

She smokes another cigarette,

The radio is playing

Something monotonous,

It's hot,

And it looks like

I'm never gonna get to play golf,

At which point

My gold tooth filling comes out

 

Uh-oh

 

But don't panic,

Go with the flow

 

I try to find

A dentist who will

Fix me up today

Or early tomorrow

So I can be on my way as planned

 

It's already late afternoon,

So today is out,

But 11:30 tomorrow

Beats 1:30,

And then 9:15 beats that

 

We have Chinese food for dinner --

This is the 5th time

In a little over a week

That I've had Chinese food:

At Berger's last Sunday,

With Kit Monday,

For work lunch Thursday,

At Gina's Sunday (Ho-Lee-Chow),

And now this

(And that doesn't count when

Deb had suggested Chinese

For dinner on Saturday

Though we ended up at Marcella's),

And I'd only had Chinese food

Once all summer previously,

At a Siemens

Learning Systems

Department luncheon

At a Chinese restaurant

 

Why don't I just stay

An extra day

And play golf anyway?

 

But I need to see

If this will work out

With both Mike A. and Bill B.

 

It's 10:30

By the time we get home

But Mike answers

And it's OK with him;

Same for Bill

 

In fact, both say

It will work out

Even better this way

 

 

Day 4 

 

I find the dentist's,

Wait a little while,

Get fixed up

With recementing

In only a few minutes

And then it's time to pay

 

I'm girding myself

For the damages

But it's only $18 --

Alright!

 

I'm writing down Day 3

In the kitchen

With the perpetual

Stream-dripping faucet,

And the plant-covered table

And the red-nectared

Hummingbird feeder

Attached to the window

 

There's a cardinal outside again

And Jock the yogurt monster

Is keeping me company again

 

To Pinehurst for a tee time

 

I buy electric Madras bermudas

So I'll be properly attired

 

At the hardware store

Two interesting plates

Sit side by side:

"EXISTING" and "IMTHEMAN"

 

We have lunch

At the country club

And then it's time to play

 

I'm thrown in

With two retirees

Who've just teed off

On course 1 (of 7)

And we're off

 

It takes me til the 15th

To finally get in the groove

But it's a beautiful

Pine-infused course,

As epitomized by "PINEWILD"

In the parking lot afterward

 

We have dinner at

John's Barbecue

But we can't pay --

He won't take plastic

And that's all we have

 

Fortunately

He'll let Joan pay

Next time she comes by

 

Back home we watch TV

And see Jimmy Connors

Win his 40th birthday match

At the US Open

 

Joan disappears

To get Jock to bed

And never reappears,

Having conked out herself

 

 

Day 5

 

Breakfast and farewells

 

There's a spot of sap

That won't come off

On my car,

From parking under the pines

In Joan's yard

 

I'm on my way after 12:30

With many miles to cover

 

Past the North Carolina Motor Speedway

In Rockingham --

Brother Bob would eat this up

 

Off and on rain and sun

And a trillion traffic lights

Along US 74

 

At one point

It's drizzling

And wood chips are raining

On my car

From a truck of loose chips

In front of me

 

It takes five hours

Just to get to Asheville

Via South Carolina,

Constantly adjusting

The A/C up and down

As the sun comes out

And goes behind clouds,

And the wiper speed up and down

As the rain ranges

From none to a drizzle and back

Again and again

 

I call Mike

To give him my status --

It's 6 and I'm only in Asheville,

Where I fill my tank of tunes

As well as fuel and food,

And I'd originally worried about

Getting to Lexington

Before he got home at 5

 

He says it should take

Another 4½ or 5 hours

 

I zip there in 4 hours,

Bleary-eyed,

Passing through the beautiful

Great Smoky Mountains,

Which are mantled in clouds,

Picking up I75 in 11:11 land (Knoxville)

And doing 75

All the 166 miles to Lexington

 

I find Mike's house by 10 PM

But there's no answer

 

Is he so sound asleep

That he can't hear me knocking,

Or maybe he's out

And will return by 11

When I should have arrived?

 

He did say

To pound the door hard

When I arrive

 

Oh well,

To kill the time

I'm sitting in the car

Writing this down

After eating a cold

Burger King bacon double

I'd brought along --

Not the greatest dinner

 

At 11,

After unsuccessfully

Trying to get comfortable

In my stuffed-to-the-gills car,

I figure since Mike hasn't driven up

That he really must be out cold

 

I'm about to start the car

To go find a pay phone

When up drives Mike

 

We shmooz and

Listen to music

Til the wee hours

 

Josh and Chris, Mike's sons,

Are staying with Mike's ex, Becky,

So I don't get to see them,

But I met Max,

Mike's husky,

While trying to see

If anyone was home

 

Mike tells me about Zina

(Which rhymes with Dinah)

Who possibly portends

The first real romance for Mike

In the five years

He's been back home in Kentucky

 

 

Day 6

 

Mike and I

Are up bright and early

To try to fit in

A trip to the hills,

A tour of town,

And a visit to a tune store

 

As we head out after breakfast

It starts raining

 

It's grey and rainy

So we don't go hiking

To the natural bridge

But we go by,

And view Appalachia poverty

In the eastern Kentucky hills

As Chrissie Hynde sings about

Corrugated tin shacks in

"The Middle of the Road"

 

We go through the Nada

One-lane tunnel

Hewn roughly from the rock

 

Back to Lexington

And Howard Johnson's

For an all-you-can-eat

On fried clams,

Catching up on baseball and sci-fi

 

Joan hadn't wanted

To go to Ho Jo's

Though there is one near her,

And I'd resisted the urge

To pull into this one

Last night

When pulling off I75 --

Mike might have met me here

 

So, stopping at this Ho Jo

Finally satisfies my Ho Jo desires

 

We go for

A quick drive around town,

Seeing a stretch of

Nice older homes,

Rupp Arena,

And horse farms

 

Then we hit the tune store,

"Cut-corner Records,"

For some great 99¢ CD's for Mike

And some Sug-man for me

 

Later it's 38 Special's "Chain Lightning"

And Xanth 2 and Neuromancer for Mike

 

It's back to the house,

Mike shakes Junie-man's hand

 

So long and

I'm on the road to Chicago

 

It's rainy and overcast

Til Indianapolis

And I'm concerned about

Really getting slowed down

Since it's a major city,

It's rush hour,

And there's construction

On the interstate I'm on,

But the sun comes out to stay,

The clouds disappearing,

And I flow right through the city

 

Now I've stopped

For fuel, food, and tunes

And update Bill on my ETA

 

So, I'm writing this

At a Dairy Queen

In mid-Indiana

At a sunlit table

 

I restock and restoke

The tune furnace

And it's on into Chicago

And the Bernaths

 

I meet Bill and Cindy's kids

Jessica and Billy,

Who are 9 and 7 respectively,

For the first time,

And their rambunctious Rotweiler, Daphne

 

Bill and I chew the fat

For a couple of hours

 

 

Day 7

 

I'm doing documentation

In the kitchen

To country music

After chatting with Cindy

And drinking coffee

And consuming some great big bagels

 

Bill and I head up to

The first day of

The Michael Jordan/Ronald McDonald

Celebrity charity golf tournament,

Where Bill is going to be a marshall

 

We're stationed mostly

At the 3rd green

For several hours

On a perfect sunny day

With temperatures in the low 80s,

Blue skies and puffy white clouds,

And a number of celebrities

Play the hole

And walk right by us

 

I'm kicking myself

For not bringing my camcorder

Or even a camera

 

Before the parade

Of celebrities begins,

I'm telling Bill about

Watching car racing on TV

All day at Bob and Deb's

Earlier in the summer,

And how at one point

One of the drivers

Had a familiar sounding name:

Walter Payton

 

It turned out to

Actually be

The great football player,

Who's now into auto racing

 

Looking at the program

For the day's foursomes,

It turns out that

Ole Sweetness,

Walter Payton,

Is scheduled to play

 

It eventually turns out, alas,

That Walter is a no-show

 

We don't see Willie McCovey,

Fred Lynn, Bonnie Blair,

Dr. J., Sugar Ray,

Mike Schmidt, Jon Cusack,

Or Jim Rice,

Who had played by earlier,

But we do see Terry Porter,

Michael Jordan, David Robinson,

Evander Holyfield, Dave Johnson

(Of "Dan and Dave" fame,

The Olympic decathlete),

And LeVar Burton

 

Dave is taller than I'd thought

And LeVar shorter

 

I ask Dave for his autograph

And as he is signing my program

I say "I hope you take it in Atlanta"

And he replies "Me too"

And I finish with

"We'll be rooting for you"

As he walks off

 

As fate would have it,

Today Dan (O'Brien)

Is in Talence, France

Setting the world record

In the decathlon,

His picture appearing

In tomorrow's paper

 

I also ask LeVar

For his autograph

And he obliges,

Walking as he writes,

Looking over at me intently

As he hands back the program

 

Perhaps he wants to

Get a good look at me --

I'm asking for his autograph

Instead of that of Charles Barkley,

Who is in the same group

 

Perhaps he wishes he had

Geordie's "visor"

 

After I get a good sunburn

Bill and I leave

To finally play

Some golf of our own

 

A plate I like is

A red on white

Wisconsin "JAY 191" --

Mr. Sculf's first name is Jay

And my full name

Translated into numbers

Adds up to 191

 

We don't tee off

At Downer's Grove

Until almost 5:30

 

The group in front of us

Is very slow

And after one hole

An inter-racial couple,

Delmer and Cindy,

Catch up to us

And join us

 

I borrow Bill's

Slice-reducing metal driver

And hit the ball quite far

 

We play as it gets darker

And have to pick up after 8 holes

Because it's night time

 

Bill and I stop for dinner

And afterward

I have a moment of panic

When I think I've lost

My new AT&T

Universal card,

Which I've been relying on

For the whole trip --

But I haven't checked one pocket

Which I normally wouldn't

Put my card in

 

Sure enough,

It's in there --

I'd put it there

To free another pocket

For tees and a ball

 

Back home I try

Calling cousin Alan

And we set up

A get together

For tomorrow afternoon

 

Then Bill and I

Relax in the basement,

Listening to ZBS

And munching crackers

While we watch TV

 

 

Day 8 

 

We're up at 7

So we can maybe play 9 holes,

Eat something,

See Chicago's skyscrapers,

And stop at the golf store

For a bag and

A slice-reducing driver,

All before getting over to

Michael Jordan's Tournament

By 12:30

 

It's overcast as we play 9

At Green Meadows

 

I finish with a par

 

We head downtown

And I film the 'scrapers

As we manoeuver through

Bears opening game traffic

 

We just have time to

Gobble an english muffin

And then rush up to the tournament,

All four Bernaths

In "DA VAN 4"

And me following

 

Though he said he would,

Bill doesn't wait for me

At the three toll plazas,

Which is nontrivial

Since I don't know how to

Get where we're going,

And I have to keep catching up

Doing 75 in traffic

On roads under construction

Where the speed limit is 45

 

I manage to catch him

And we get to the 3rd hole

In time to watch Terry Porter

And then John Denver

 

This time I've got

My camcorder

And pocket 35mm camera

 

Michael Jordan

And Charles Barkley

Come through together,

With soap star Jack Wagner --

I get good shots of 'em all

 

Willie McCovey and Jim Rice

Are in what turns out to be

The final group

And we can leave

 

Originally we had expected

To be there til maybe 4:30

Which is why I brought my car,

Since I had to be at Alan's at 5:30,

But it's only 1:30

 

With time on our hands

And another beautiful day after all,

We head into Long Grove for lunch

 

I pay for the group

And the waitress neglects to

Bring my AT&T card back

 

Fortunately I notice this

And another crisis is avoided

 

We traipse around the

Little touristy town

 

I ask Bill how to

Get to the golf store,

As I still have 2 hours

Til I'm due at Alan's,

And he says he might as well

Lead me to the parking lot

Where the store is located

 

We get there

And say our farewells

 

I get a nice new blue bag

And a Captain Hook

Slice-reducing driver

 

I dump out my old, mildewy bag

In the parking lot

And some curious items fall out --

An ice scraper/snow brush

And some shards of glass

From my 1986 accident

 

It's time to head to Alan's

 

I get there right on time

And chat with Alan,

Then Brenda and the boys get home

 

I meet Benjamin and Daniel Sussna (6 and 4)

For the first time

And get reacquainted with Brenda

 

I shower,

We have a nice dinner

On the patio in the backyard,

And then I play ball with Benjamin

 

He's very bright

And we hit it off

 

Then we're inside

 

Alan and I are

Talking about our work,

And Daniel asks me if

I would like to watch "Hook"

About Captain Hook

 

Hmm...

 

Bedtime and documenting

Yesterday and today

In the family room area

 

 

Day 9

 

Alan makes pancakes

For the boys and me --

Brenda is playing

In a tennis tournament

So I only see her

On her way out

 

We watch the movie "Hook,"

Which is wonderful

And consolidates the coincidence

With my new driver,

But the coincidence intensifies

Because it turns out that

The movie is actually about Peter Pan,

Who came up repeatedly

With Jock in North Carolina

(I even referred to

"Going for Peter Pancakes"

To Joan and Jock)

 

A number of familiar faces

Appear in the movie,

Including Robin Williams,

Julia Roberts, Bob Hoskins,

Maggie Smith, Phil Collins,

and David Crosby

 

It isn't til

I'm taking a morning shower

On Day 10

That I remember that

Another famous star

Is supposed to be in the cast --

Dustin Hoffman

 

I never suspected

During the movie

That he was Captain Hook,

Though I even wondered

Who was playing the captain

 

Interestingly, Joan had told me

About once seeing Dustin Hoffman

Walk by with his little boy

As Joan was sitting down

In downtown Pinehurst

 

I was going to spend the day

With Alan, Brenda, and the boys

But the club where

Brenda is playing

Doesn't allow guests

On holidays

And today is Labor Day,

So it's time to get on the road

 

I never get to

Say goodbye to Brenda

But Alan says

They'll visit San Diego

 

I retwist my right ankle

Taking my suitcase out to my car

 

I'd twisted it

Playing basketball

At Harry Sepp's

The weekend before this trip

 

I'm into Wisconsin

For the first time

 

Past Milwaukee and Madison

 

In the afternoon

There are bursts and spurts of purps,

The bluish-purple flowers,

Along the roadside

Between Oconomowoc and Ixonia

 

I'd always liked them

When living in upstate New York

And had seen them this summer

In Princeton

 

I'd wanted to photograph them

But hadn't,

And saw them

When back in Dutchess County

Visiting Renate

Two weeks ago,

But hadn't photographed them

 

I saw them again

In Kentucky

But hadn't photographed them

 

Finally, yesterday, I did,

In Long Grove

With the Bernaths

 

After a period of steady rain,

Where I have to choose between

Cruise control or windshield wipers

At more than a slow rate,

There is a traffic jam

More appropriate for

Rush hour on an LA freeway

Than for an interstate

In the sticks of

Western Wisconsin

 

We crawl at 5 mph

Or stop dead

For 5 miles before

The two lanes merge

Due to highway construction

 

This kills the better part of an hour

And I'd been hoping to

Make it well into Minnesota

Even though I hadn't gotten started

Until after lunch

 

A couple of times

I pass curious signs

For the "Pine Cone" restaurant

That say "start smiling"

And of course I do

("Sussna" means "pine")

 

There's an interesting

Use of words

At one point

For a religious center:

Trinity Divinity

 

By 7 and sunset

I've reached La Crosse

At the western edge

Of Wisconsin

And stop for dinner and gas

 

I decide to try

To cross the 280 miles

Of southern Minnesota

Before I call it a day,

And hurtle at a steady 75,

The 3/4 moon, Jun, and tunes

Keeping me company

 

Crossing the Mississippi

Signals more than

A change of states --

The land starts rising

Into the great western plateau,

And indeed we are now in the West

 

Only an hour and a half after dinner

I stop to use the facilities

And can't believe

How cold it is --

I'm in shorts

Per the 80-degree plus days

We'd had in the Windy City

And it must be

30 degrees colder now

Than it was at dinnertime

 

I see my first two Iowa plates,

Which have numbers of 764 and 191

(764 is 4 x 191)

 

At one point,

After seeing a sign saying

To tune to a specific station

For weather information,

I switch on AM radio,

Which I still have set to

WABC, New York

From listening to Yankee games

The last couple of weeks

Of my stay in New Jersey,

And the radio blasts out

"WABC 770" here

In the middle of Minnesota

 

I even catch the news that

The Yanks have scored 4

In the 13th inning

To beat Baltimore 6-2

(Sorry, Oriole fans)

 

I pull into

Sioux Falls, South Dakota

Exactly as

The Himalaya 3+ T's end

After 11 PM

To jump in bed exhausted

 

The Himalayas are

My favorite songs,

72 tapes worth --

The 3+'s are the lowest level

Of these highest songs,

And the T's are

The songs whose titles

Begin with the letter "T"

 

The T's have been on

For 2+ days

And 8 or 10 90-minute tapes

 

I've entered 3 states today

That I've never been in before

 

 

Day 10

 

Breakfast of 5 pancakes at Perkins

And I'm off to cross

The 400 miles of South Dakota

To the Black Hills

 

Along much of the way

There are those funny

Cylindrical bales of hay,

From 3 to 6 feet across,

Sometimes solitary

Like petrified sequoia logs,

Sometimes aligned end to end

Making enormous tootsie rolls,

Sometimes stacked

To 2 or 3 levels

Like cannon balls

 

Right after the second

Antiabortion billboard

A sign for the town

Pukwana

Seems appropriate

 

On a grassy hillside

A bunch of light boulders

Distributed randomly

Turns out to be cows

Lying down at various angles

 

From a couple of hundred miles

Before the actual exit for it,

A bazillion signs,

Each one different,

Proclaim the virtues of Wall Drug

 

I stop there for lunch and gas

And browse for a while,

Only picking up a few

Pretty polished pebbles

 

Now it's time to

Locate Mount Rushmore

 

There are many signs

Advertising a place

Where they tell

The story of the carving

 

The person who did it,

Whose name sounds like

A science fiction alien's,

Was Gutzon Borglum

 

The mountain is over 20 miles

Off the interstate

But that's OK,

It's only early afternoon

 

I get there

And do my camcord thing,

Obliging an old gent's request

To take his picture

With the big boys as background

 

Passing numerous signs

On the way in

For several caves and caverns,

I plan on going to at least one,

Perhaps "Crystal Cavern"

 

Since I'm so far

Off the interstate

And the only cave nearby

Is the "Mt. Rushmore Caverns"

I figure I'll go there

 

But, since Joan had insisted

That I see the Crazy Horse

Mountain face sculpture

And there are signs for it

And for yet another cave,

The Jewel Cave,

I head for Crazy Horse

 

This is almost 20 miles

Even further from I90,

Through the beautiful Black Hills,

So I imagine that

I won't be heading back to

Mount Rushmore Caverns,

Let alone that stretch of I90,

And I'll go to Jewel Cave

And continue on into Wyoming

On the US highway I'm on

And connect back up with I90

Way into Wyoming

 

Crazy Horse is very disappointing,

Especially after

Just seeing Mount Rushmore,

Being barely started and crude

 

It's getting to be 4 PM

And I rush now

On the back road US 16

To try to get to Jewel Cave

As soon as possible,

Thinking they might close by 5

 

I get there about

Quarter to 5

But the last tour

Had been at 4

 

The info center

Is still open

So I browse

 

There are neat maps

Of Jewel Cave and Wind Cave

And fascinating

Mineral and crystal displays,

But it looks like

I'm not going to see any caves

After all

 

Now, looking at my route,

I realize that I've already

Gone somewhat west

Of Devil's Tower,

Which I'd planned on seeing,

And would have

A long, backroad trip

To get to I90

And from there to backtrack

On another back road

To get to the Tower --

If only I'd ignored Crazy Horse

And headed back from Mt. Rushmore

To one of the original caves

And back to I90

East of Devil's Tower

 

Now I fight the setting sun,

Doing 70+ on these back roads

Through the northeastern corner of Wyoming

To try to reach the Tower

Before the sun sets

 

Somehow I just make it,

Though it's touch and go,

With big clouds blocking the sun

Much of the way

 

As I start back

A deer strolls across the road

As if to slow me down --

I am going kind of fast

 

Now I get back to I90

And head west

To see how far I can get

Towards Montana

Before calling it a day

 

I stop for dinner

At the Perkins in Gillette

 

It seems that most of the roads here

Are named for creeks --

Some of the more interesting exits

Are for Wild Horse Creek Road,

Dead Horse Creek Road,

Crazy Woman Creek Road,

Piney Creek Road,

And Prairie Dog Creek Road

 

I stop for the night

At Sheriden,

Just shy of the Montana border

 

Even with the stops and back roads

It's still been

An almost 700-mile day

 

 

Day 11 

 

Up at 6,

It's 45 with wind chill 24

 

Checkout at 7,

Breakfast at Perkins again,

Writing for an hour

To fill in some missed,

As well as new, points

Scribbled on a map

Or scrap of paper

While driving,

And Day 10's events

 

There's snow on the

Big Horn Mountains

Across the street

 

With all the speeding

That I've been doing,

There haven't been any cops

In Minnesota,

South Dakota,

Or Wyoming

 

As I'm crossing into Montana

I remember thinking about

Junior's spot up front,

Where he's propped up on a pillow

And has his chin on the dashboard,

As his crow's nest --

Just across the Montana border

There's a sign declaring

That we're now entering

The Crow Indian reservation

 

There's an intriguing

Official sign for

The Tongue River Creative Playground

 

Another sign announces

The Connor Battlefield --

I wonder if there's any relation to

Dave Connor,

Who I used to work with

At AGS in Dutchess County

And who grew up

In Montana or Wyoming

 

The air is crystal clean

 

The lower Montana country

Is rolling tan prairie,

The only trees being deciduous,

Some with leaves

Turned yellow or orange,

Nestled only in crevices and creases

Of the undulating landscape,

And evergreens perched on hillcrests

 

A hundred-car train

Drawn by four engines

Chugs alongside

 

No clouds are allowed today

 

A song on my current tape ends

And I get a yen

To turn on the radio

And see if I can find

A baseball game to listen to

Even though it's only

11 AM, Mountain Time

 

I search through the AM band,

Finding only a handful of stations,

Mostly country and western music,

When I get

"A White Sport Coat and a Pink Carnation,"

A real blast from the past

 

With no break

One of my all-time favorites,

"Pipeline,"

Comes on

 

Finishing my scan of the dial,

Lo and behold there's a game!

 

It's the Mariners at Minnesota

In the top of the first

As I close in on

The snow-capped Beartooth range

Of the Rockies of Montana

 

At one point

I have to slow way down

Because there's a house being hauled

That stretches across

The entire width of

The 2-lane interstate

 

I approach the Crazy Mountains

At Big Timber

And turn off onto US 191 north

 

A stop for gas

At a convenience store

Stocked with chewing tobacco,

Hatchets, and a rack of rifles,

As well as the usual sundries

 

Lunch at the Grand Hotel downtown,

Where I overhear

A news cast saying

That the northern lights

Were good last night

In northern Montana

And should be again tonight

If skies remain clear,

Which they should

 

I'd never seen

The aurora borealis

And had always wanted to

 

I'd wondered

Before starting the trip

If I'd have a chance

To see it

While up in Canada

 

I'd talked to

A fellow summer student

Who was from Alberta

The last week

At work at Siemens

And he'd said to forget it,

I'd have to be there

In the middle of the winter

To have a chance

 

Might I see some tonight

Despite the odds?

 

I'm off

 

A stop for pictures

And the car antenna

Starts acting up,

Whining and revving non-stop

Even with the engine off

As it won't retract

 

I'm worried that

This will be a nuisance

But as I get on the road again

I realize that this could be

More than a nuisance

If it runs the battery down

While the engine is off overnight

 

I decide to see,

When I get a chance,

If removing a fuse

Will take the antenna

Out of commission

Without messing up

 

Anything else essential

 

The Twins win 6-2

 

A fox crosses the road

In front of me

 

It's in the 60's,

The very big sky is cloudless,

And the afternoon sun

Is beaming in the window on me

As I cruise up to,

Through, and beyond Great Falls,

Listening to good tunes

On the local rock FM station

 

The Rockies peak up

Over the western horizon

 

Approaching the Canadian border

At Sweetgrass,

Past Sunburst,

The countryside is dotted

With oil rigs like bobbing birds

The size of small dinosaurs,

While a mile later

A harvester like a great red insect

Churns up grain

And spews it out the other end,

While a mile later

A possum sits in the fast lane

And sniffs a wise decision

Not to cross into our lane,

As I'm writing all this down

And steering with one knee,

Doing 65

 

I get to the border customs

And the woman in the booth

Is apparently suspicious

Because "The car is so full

Of stereo equipment,"

Hands me a cardboard ticket

With cryptic codes on it,

And directs me to pull over

And go into the building

To see officials

 

I sit and wait

And then get called in

To meet with a young man

 

I ask him

What this is all about

And he says that

He'll be checking

My suitability

For entry into Canada

 

Asking for ID,

Where I live,

What I do,

Where I'm going,

What my arrest record is,

And if I'd ever

Had trouble with

Canadian authorities,

He also seems suspicious

 

What kind of student

Who is currently registered

Doesn't have to be back at school

By any specified date?

 

I tell him what kind

 

He asks me to wait outside again,

While he presumably

Looks me up on

A police computer system

 

I'm worried that

They'll want to search my car,

Maybe messing up

My carefully packed possessions,

Perhaps even ruining

My film and video

As they ransack in vain,

Not to mention delaying me --

They might even deny me entry

After I'd been so looking forward

To visiting the Canadian Rockies

 

A while later he comes out,

Hands me back the ticket,

And says I'm all set --

Just present the card

To an officer downstairs

 

After another wait

I step forward

And anxiously give the card

To the female officer

 

She looks it over

And says OK,

You're cleared to go ahead

 

Whew!

 

The sun has almost set

As I find I have to adjust

To speed limit signs

Specifying kilometers per hour,

But fortunately

My speedometer

Also has metric settings

 

The first song on my tape

Is by Kim Mitchell,

Who's Canadian,

Which seems appropriate

 

Bill Nelson comes on with

"He and Sleep were Brothers,"

And the line

"Driving cars that shift no gears

Across the maps of heaven"

Seems to fit nicely with

This sunset moment of movement

Under cruise control

Across this legendary land

 

Are those glaciers

On the mountains on the horizon?

 

Come to think of it,

Glacier National Park

Should be over that way...

 

I make it to Lethbridge

And gas up after a 360-mile tank

(Excellent for Psience)

 

Now it's time to dine

And the car is sucked in

To a Chinese restaurant

 

I find and remove the fuse

And though some nicety features

Like the horn,

The dashboard hatchback latch,

And the automatic door locks

Are disabled along with the antenna,

The tunes still work

And nothing critical is knocked out

 

There're 5 minutes left

On the smorgasbord

So I fill up two plates

And do some serious chowing down

 

As I pull out

Of the parking lot

The bottom of the car

Bangs badly on the curb

 

Uh-oh --

Will there be car problems

So far from home?

 

Leaving Lethbridge

There's a sign for

A highway called "Crowsnest Trail" --

Hmm...

 

We pass over the Oldman River

While a mile later

There's a sign for

"Moon River Estates" --

Do they realize up here

That these names echo

Some of our most famous

Popular songs?

 

I suspect not

 

Pulling into Fort MacLeod,

It's time to bed down

 

Asking the friendly fellow

With one good hand

At the motel office

About the northern lights,

After he thought

It was pretty nifty that

Today's date is 9/9/92,

He goes to the window

And lo and behold,

There they are!

 

We go outside

And there's a

Gorgeous green curling cloud

Clearly visible

Even with the ambient light in town

From neon signs and street lights

 

I don't really spend much time

Checking out the display,

As he's giving me directions

To a point north of town

Where the viewing should be good

 

I hop in the car

And follow the directions,

Which include going over

A neat green steel

One-lane bridge

 

I sit for over an hour

Watching these aurorae

Like phantom clouds

That come and go

And shift shape in place,

But none are as clear,

Colorful, or bright

As that first one

That he and I saw,

So there's nothing on video

 

Calling it a day,

I think that maybe

Because the moon is so bright

The effects aren't

As good as they could be --

Maybe if I wake up

Between moonset and sunrise

I might catch some good ones

 

 

Day 12

 

Something wakes me up at 6

And I dress and go outside --

The lights are still going

But there's nothing spectacular

 

An hour later I get up

And can't use my shaver

In the bathroom

Though it's a universal voltage model,

But I manage to get it working

Using a bedroom socket,

So I shave at the desk

Wearing my glasses

So I can sort of

See myself in the mirror

 

Then, as I'm about to

Rinse the shampoo out of my hair

During yet another morning shower,

The smoke alarm goes off

 

It keeps up for 5 minutes

That seems like an eternity

 

In the parking lot

As I'm getting ready to leave,

I strike up a chat

With the chap

From the next room

 

Asking him about

The northern lights,

He says that though

He's a native Albertan

He's only seen them

A few times in his life!

 

I pull into a parking lot

Near a cafe

Where I'll have breakfast,

And an Indian named Jeff,

Who was crossing the street

With his brother

When I pulled up,

Asks me for some money

For himself and his brother,

Mentioning that

The Indians around here

Aren't very friendly

 

I give him $5

 

After a number of cups of

High-octane coffee

And 90 minutes of

Catching up on

This documentation,

It's time to get going

On this, my half-birthday

 

After all that time in the restaurant,

As I get to my car

And am about to get in,

Who should be walking down the sidewalk

But Jeff, his brother,

And a third Indian

 

I wave and Jeff walks over

 

He tells me that

The other Indian

Has found a place for them to stay

And asks me for another handout

 

I say no

But that maybe someone else

Will help them out later

 

I've decided not to go

With my original plan,

To go to Edmonton

And then west to Jasper

And down to Banff

So that I wouldn't

Retrace my path --

Instead I'm going to

Head straight for

The Rockies of Banff

From Calgary

And then head up

Through the mountains

To Jasper

And back down again

 

It's very windy today

Just as it was yesterday in Montana

 

It seems that most everyone here

Drives with their headlights on

In the daytime

 

It also seems that

Just about every town here

Features a row of

Several-story angular grain silos

Standing on end

Like wooden starcraft

Parked at a spaceport

(Bill's van's brand is "Starcraft" --

They specialize in

Wood interior touches)

 

As I'm enjoying

LZ's "In the Light"

I pass a sign for Mazeppa...

 

The route from

The border to Banff

Is the curious

Canadian highway sequence

4 to 3 to 2 to 1!

 

There's this humongous

Hundred-mile long cloud

With a scalopped edge

Running north to south

Parallel to

The Rocky Mountain range,

Ending at Calgary

 

Gas and lunch

Just west of the city,

Where the fellow at

The gas and goodies store

Tells me about

The golf courses

In the Rockies

And particularly emphasizes

Kananaskis

As nice and also cheap

 

Now I head straight

For the mountains

And pass underneath

The corrugated cloud

 

It's an absolutely perfect day

 

I've decided not to

Stop and play golf

At Kananaskis,

Which is just before the mountains

 

The radio,

When passing through Calgary,

Had said it would be cloudy

And would likely rain

Over the weekend,

So I don't want to lose

This chance to see the mountains

In great weather

 

I enter the park

 

For the next 6 hours

It's a paradise on earth

Among major-league majestic mountains

With frequent stops to gape

And film and photograph the scenery

 

There's one snow-topped alpine peak after another,

Creeks of an uncanny green

I'd only seen in Norway before,

Bright sunshine and blue sky,

A series of waterfalls in a ravine,

A bunch of mountain sheep at one point

And a group of elk at another

 

It's clouding over

And getting dark

As I approach Jasper

And it's time to

Find lodging for two nights,

Since I intend to

Play golf tomorrow

 

I've had a feeling

That it will be difficult

To find a vacancy

 

Also, even if I succeed

It might be quite expensive

 

Nearing town

I pull into the first lodging I see

 

The vacancy sign is lit

But there is nothing for tonight

 

There is half of a duplex cabin

Available for tomorrow night

So I take it

 

Heading into town,

Several motels and lodges

Either have their

"No Vacancy" signs on

Or have no rooms

Upon inquiry

 

I finally find one

With a vacancy

And take it

But it's over $100

For the night!

 

The cabin,

Well outside town,

Is by a river

And is less than $50

 

Right next door

To the expensive motel

Is a nice restaurant,

So I go there for dinner

After my first early checkin

And evening shower

In a while

 

The place is packed

And there is a 40 minute wait

But I decide to stick it out anyway

 

I sit in the bar

Drinking Perrier,

Glancing at a large-screen TV

With US Open tennis on it,

Munching bar snacks,

And jotting this account of Day 12 --

Since it is taking so long each morning

To catch up on

The previous day's documentation,

I figure I'll get

A head start on things

Tonight

 

A bunch of German hunters

Starts singing loudly

 

Now for a nice dinner

 

Sitting at my dinner table

At the far end of the dining room,

With Greek music

Coming out of a speaker behind me,

I can still hear the Germans

 

The waiter finds me an end cut

And I manage to finish it,

Though for the second night in a row

I've eaten a huge amount --

If I stay in Canada much longer

I'll put on a lot of weight

 

This story is going on for so long

That I'm finishing the pad

That Alan gave me in Chicago

After I'd used up my first pad --

I never thought that

I'd use up this one too

 

As some pleasant ballads

Featuring a female singer

Have replaced the Greek music,

I'm waiting for cappucino

So I can finish dinner,

And it's after 10 already!

 

The caffeinated cappucino

Is quite delicious as dessert

And is a fitting bookend to the day,

Since I started the day

With leaded coffee in Fort Macleod

 

Maybe the caffeine explains why

I'm writing this at 4 AM

 

 

Day 13

 

Errands and breakfast

In downtown Jasper

 

I locate the golf course

At Jasper Lodge

And I'm put in the third group

 

I go back to the car

To get my gear

And by the time I return

My group is already teeing off

 

I try to quickly get a power cart

But they don't take Mastercard

So it looks like I'll be walking,

Which might be daunting

If the course is hilly,

And might slow my group down

Since it seems that

Everyone is driving

 

It will save me about $25, though

 

Introductions are made --

I'm playing with

Dave from Edmonton

And his sister Shigeku,

Who is in from Japan

Along with their aunt

 

The aunt, Shigeku,

And Dave's son Hisa, 9,

Are in one cart

And Dave says I can ride with him

 

The signs on the course

Are bilingual,

But not English/French

Like most things in Canada --

Rather they're English/Japanese,

Which seems appropriate

 

The day turns out to be

Partly sunny and comfortably warm

Though it had been about 40

When I first came into town this morning

 

Dave tells me how

A week ago it stormed for 3 days

And the wind chill was 18 below

Here in the mountains

 

The scenery is incredible

And the company is fine

 

Throughout the round

They all take pictures

And even invite me in

 

The others clap after my shots

If they deem them well done

 

Dave buys me lunch

At a food stand

Midway through the course,

Saying "Welcome to Canada"

 

It turns out that

He's a sushi chef

 

We finish and say our goodbyes

 

I head over to Becker's cabins

To check in, shower,

And sit for a bit

By the raging green river

Rushing by right there

 

A young lady from Colorado

With nice blue eyes

Is sitting nearby

And we strike up a conversation

 

It's time to have dinner

And then catch a movie in town

 

I've decided to see

"Death Becomes Her"

With Meryl Streep,

Bruce Willis, and Goldie Hawn

 

It has clouded over

And is starting to drizzle --

I'm lucky that

The weather held as long as it did

 

It'll be nice to just relax

And take it easy

Before getting back on the road tomorrow

 

There are a number of elk,

Including a buck (with antlers),

Hanging out in town

As nice as you please

 

I can see one out the window

Of the restaurant that I've fallen into

Because of where I had to park

 

The movie is stupid

 

I return to the chilly cabin

And fall asleep to

A Blue Jays/Rangers game

 

 

Day 14 

 

Into town for breakfast

 

More elk

 

Postage and pretzels at Wink's

On Patricia Street

 

I wait to be seated

At two different restaurants

And leave both fed up with waiting

 

I end up at the same place

That I'd had breakfast

The morning before,

Though I don't realize it

Until I've already entered

 

My waitress today

Is the lady who

Directed me to the golf course

Yesterday

And today she directs me

To the tramway up the mountain

 

I check out sweaters and shirts

But the sweaters are

150 Canadian dollars and up -- too much

 

Speaking of things Canadian,

My time here has featured

Constant conversion,

Whether it's speed limits in kph,

Money amounts in Canadian dollars,

Or temperatures in degrees Celsius

 

I find the tram,

Pay and wait,

Just missing a car up,

And finally go up

 

At the top

It's absolutely freezing --

The gloves Bill gave me

Are a life saver

 

The view is unbelievable

As expected,

The morning being sunny

In the 180 degrees of panorama

Available from the top

 

I take lots of photos and footage

And hop on a car going down

After freezing my buns off

 

Just before we get to the bottom

Some of the passengers

Are bantering about

The wheel from the tram

Having fallen off --

They can see it

Lying on the ground below

 

I don't pay much attention to them,

But at one point

I do look out and down

And there's this huge blue wagon wheel

Embedded in the ground

 

This reminds me that,

Come to think of it,

Wagon wheels have been popping up

 

There's a wagon wheel

By the front wall of

Gina's townhouse,

And another one

Resting along a fence

In Joan's yard

 

There may have been another one

Somewhere along the journey

But I can't remember for sure

 

On another note,

Yes, there were Germans

Riding up with me

To match the Germans

Who seem to be nearby

At almost every meal

I've had in Jasper

 

Now I head south,

Wanting to check out

The Athabasca Falls

If I spot a sign for them

 

There is a sign

So I pull in

 

They're quite nice,

Being short but turbulent

 

Winding my way toward

Another viewpoint,

Three young women

Cross paths with me

In a narrow confine,

Saying hello,

And I recognize them

From the tramcar down

 

On the road again

And uh-oh, another falls

 

I check this out

And head onward

 

Frequent stops

For photos and filming

 

Occasional snow flurries

While the sun is shining

 

A stop to fill up my

Green and lavender

Water container

From a roadside waterfall

 

At some point

In all of this

Big Country

Comes on with

"Prairie Rose,"

Which is fitting

Since Alberta is

"Wild rose country"

 

The mountains are miraculous --

If any one of them

Were to be transported to

Most places on earth

It would be one of the

Wonders of the world;

But there are dozens,

Probably hundreds of peaks here

And no matter in which direction one looks

There is either a monster mountain right there

Or if there is a gap between peaks

Then there is at least one mountain

In the distance

Visible through the gap

 

One thing about

The Canadian Rockies

Is that there don't seem to be foothills --

One minute you're in

Flat brown prairie

And the next you're in

Magnificent mountains --

Maybe what foothills exist

Should be called "footmountains"

 

I bang the bottom of the car again

Pulling back on the road

After pulling off for pictures,

And then I have

A not very appetizing

Cafeteria lunch at Athabasca Glacier

 

Then it's more of the same driving --

It's a clean job

But somebody's got to do it,

And I'm just the guy for the job

 

My plan is to pass Banff

And head south to Kananaskis,

Where the good golf course

Is supposed to be,

And which just happens

To also be on my route

Back to the States

And Glacier National Park

 

I almost pull off at Banff,

Passing a place with vacancies

And an outrageous view,

But keep to my plan

 

I stop for gas at Canmore

 

Between us

The attendant and I

Get my hood open

After five minutes of trying --

It's getting to where

It just won't open

 

I begin to wonder

If not stopping at Banff

Was a big mistake,

For, as soon as I get past Banff,

Which was in early evening sunshine,

The weather gets worse

And I am soon in rain

Under thick grey clouds

 

Finding the road south,

It continues raining,

Then it starts sleeting

 

What chance will I have

Of golfing tomorrow?

 

After a few miles

I can at least tell

That I am surrounded by

Large hills or even possibly

Big mountains

Whose shoulders and heads

Are hidden by thick cloud cover

 

I find the Kananaskis Village

And pull into the Hotel Kananaskis

 

There is a vacancy for me

And though it is regularly

175 Canadian dollars

I can have it for 100

 

The room is elegant --

This is some place,

A fancy resort apparently

 

I go to take a shower

But there's no shower curtain

In the bathtub area --

Oh, there's a separate shower

 

Choosing from among

Several places to eat

In the self-contained

Three-hotel village,

I enjoy a fine dinner

Of venison like filet mignon

 

The only thing I'm interested in

From the mini-bar in my room

Is a deck of souvenir playing cards

 

I watch a little TV

And then it's lights out

 

 

Day 15 

 

Up by 7

And there's a snowstorm on

 

There are already

A couple of inches

On the ground

 

Well, I had gotten my wish --

Last night I had wanted it to snow

 

Now that I've gotten my wish,

What am I gonna do with it?

 

The evergreens are freshly coated

And it's coming down solidly

 

A delicious breakfast,

Checkout,

And I'm off into the blizzard,

Trying to get out

Before I get snowed in --

I want to get as far south

And away from this instant winter

As possible

 

So much for golf today

 

I head out

And make a turn onto

What I think is Highway 40

(Many of the signs are

Covered with snow and unreadable)

Back to the main route to Calgary,

Highway 1 --

I had debated

Continuing south

On the local highway

To the border

And Glacier Park,

But decided that this

Might be too risky

 

The road I've turned onto

Has not been plowed yet

 

I start up it

Becoming more concerned

With each moment

Because the road is icy slush,

Visibility is minimal

In the blinding blizzard,

And the road has started

Up a long incline

 

I make it to the top

Following in the tire tracks

Of a previous adventurer,

Noticing that no one

Has come the other way yet

 

There's a sign

For a ski resort,

Which doesn't seem right --

Am I going the wrong way?

 

All of a sudden

The road ends

At the ski resort --

The good news is

I don't have far

To go back to get back on track

And thank goodness

I couldn't keep going the wrong way

 

I retrace my path

Back to the wrong turn

And go the other way

And shortly come to Highway 40

 

It's a harrowing half hour

To get to Route 1

But I make it

 

The road isn't slush or ice

So I can speed up to

The speed limit of 110 kph

(About 69 mph)

 

The gloves come in handy again

As I have to clean off the snow

Stuck to the wipers

 

About half way to Calgary

There's a scary

Surprise slushy stretch

And I'm lucky

To be able to slow down

Without mishap

 

In Calgary

Stevie Wonder comes on the radio

(I'm rationing the 4's)

Singing about movin' on

To a place in the sun --

This seems very appropriate

As the snow comes down

 

Further retracing

My entire Canadian route,

The snow coating

Converting cylindrical hay bales

Into giant frosted shredded wheat,

The snow turns to rain

 

The thick snow that has accumulated

On my frogeye headlights

Is blasted off

By the wind and water

Thrown up by 18-wheelers

Going the other way

 

I come into Fort MacLeod

After crossing a "Texas gate"

(Metal grating in the road

To keep cattle from entering the highway)

And "rumble strips"

(Grooves in the road

That make a car rattle,

To alert drivers

To an impending required stop)

 

I get gas

 

On the way out of town

I again pass

The "Scarlet and Gold" restaurant,

Which reminds me of

The 13th Floor Elevators' song

 

Then it's lunch in Lethbridge

 

I stop at a big drug store

To get shoelaces and socks

(One of the shoelaces

To my tan shoes

Had broken last night

When I went to put them on)

And to use up my Canadian cash,

As I would be crossing

To the States momentarily

 

The clerk who I ask

Leads me to both items,

Which is a lot more

Than clerks most places do

 

At the counter I'm 22¢ short

And the woman behind me

Makes up the difference

 

South now to the border,

The rain stopping

And the sun coming out

 

It's time to worry about

What will happen at customs

 

Will the U.S. people hassle me?

 

Maybe they'll make me stop

And submit to questions

 

Maybe they'll search

My tightly packed car

And ask me for proof of ownership

On all of my items

 

The fellow does ask a lot of questions

And takes my license

Inside his booth,

Which he didn't seem to do

With the people

Who had preceded me

 

After being dubious about

The car being so full

If I were just in Canada for vacation

I explain about

Working in New Jersey for the summer

And he reluctantly lets me go

 

Phew!

 

Checking the map,

I see that I can still

Try for Glacier Park

By cutting due west from Shelby

 

Since it's so sunny

I decide to go for it --

Maybe this far south

The Rockies won't be socked in with snow

 

As I drive along I15 south

I can see what looks like

A massive white cloud zone

Back over the Albertan Rockies

Which isn't clumpy cumulus

But more misty and pure --

That must be the snowstorm

 

Looking west to the mountains

(Doesn't the western edge

Of Montana

Look like a face?)

It looks like

Some of the range is clear

And some has

Mixed cumulus and cotton candy

Possibly indicative of snow

 

Should I keep going south

And forget about Glacier Park?

 

I decide to give the park a go --

Maybe it will be worth it

Once I get there

 

I head west from Shelby

And for the 70 miles

To the mountains

It looks more and more like

I'm heading right back into

A serious snowstorm

 

For the second time today

Someone blinks their lights at me

As if signaling that

A policecar is just ahead --

I slow down

And pass a cop right afterward --

Who says the 13th is unlucky?

 

By the time I get

To the mountains

I'm into the slate grey cloud

And it's snowing great guns

 

Hating to write off

The miles and time invested

And quit my quest

And retrace my tracks,

Nevertheless I give in

And return to Shelby

 

Back on I15,

A cotton mist snow cloud

Is a parasite on

A long cumulus strudel

Crossing the sky

 

I head through Great Falls,

Where they play the song about

"Take the Long Way Home"

By Supertramp --

I'd thought of calling this story

"The Long Way Home"

Early in the trip

And had thought of the song

 

Then on to Helena and Butte

As it gets dark

 

Along the way the sky is

Salmon-colored beneath the sun

Though it's hours from sunset

 

There are a lot of curves

Between Great Falls and Helena

That Bob might enjoy

Doing on a motorcycle

 

I want to turn

East on I90 from Butte

And make it to Bozeman,

Which would serve as

A good jumping-off point

For Yellowstone and beyond

Tomorrow

 

Coming down past Butte

In the last light of day

As I reach 700 miles for the day

And 10,000 for the summer

It's beaut-iful,

The orange city lights

Filling the valley

Surrounded by mountains

And the sky showing final colors

 

Heading east on 90

It's 78 miles to Bozeman,

And at the 75 I've been doing

All the way from Shelby,

It will only take an hour,

But it's already almost 8:30

 

As the highway climbs

Up and over

The continental divide again

And the moon rises,

I can tell that

This is a beautiful area

That I'm missing

But would have seen in daylight

If I hadn't tried for Glacier Park

 

The further from Butte I get

The more I want to turn around

And start tomorrow

Taking in the mountain pass

 

So, I do reverse

And go back to Butte

For the night

 

 

Day 16 

 

It's 24 degrees this morning

And my car key gets stuck

In the trunk lock

For a couple of anxious minutes

 

Breakfast at the

War Bonnet Best Western

Where I spent the night and had dinner

 

The waitress is a beautiful

Southeast European-looking amazon

Somewhat reminiscent of

Tiny Marjorie

 

Up and over the divide

At 6393 feet again

 

On toward Bozeman

But I have been thinking

I still don't have

Photos of cows yet

Though I've seen many herds

So far on the trip

 

Admiring the snow-capped

Mountains all around,

I see some mixed-color cattle

With great peaks as a backdrop

But can't stop in time

 

Looking for a turnaround

For "authorized vehicles only,"

I next pass a nice river,

The Gallatin,

And still haven't been able

To turn around

When I spot sheep

And a llama

 

I finally turn around

Several miles later

Via the next exit

And go back

 

Turning around again

At the previous exit

To get going in the right direction,

I get back to the cows

And take some great shots

 

The cows look at me

And one rust-colored teenager

Comes quite close

On its side of

The little water channel

Separating us

 

Next I stop at the river

And then go on to the sheep

 

I'm not getting to Yellowstone

But the stops are worth it

 

I get to the turnoff

To Yellowstone at US 89

And BAM!

I'm in the mountains

 

The whole way down

To Gardiner

Is beautiful

 

I'm having a

Buffalo bacon cheeseburger

For lunch

Outdoors at Helen's Corral

In Gardiner

 

Yes, it's really buffalo meat

 

The burger is huge

And delicious

And it's windy

So I have to

Keep holding down

My napkins,

Foam burger container,

And pad

 

At the entrance to the park

There are some

Antelope-like pronghorns

 

I get to the first locus,

Mammoth Hot Springs

 

I'm going to head on,

Aiming to catch Old Faithful

And the Tower Falls

At the Grand Canyon

Of the Yellowstone

And it's already after 2,

But I decide to check out

Mammoth Hot Springs

As quickly as I can,

Just in case

There's something worth seeing

 

There are some neat

Sulphurous water terraces

And some more animals

 

Then I head down

Towards the falls and canyon

And under the sky-eating cloud

That is waiting in the southwest

 

Unfortunately,

All these interesting sights

Keep coming up along the way,

Including bison and burnt trees

And herds of boulders

Grazing peacefully

On grassy hillsides

 

By the time

I have walked

Down a zig-zag path

To the foot of Tower Falls

And done the same thing

At the Lower Falls

At the Grand Canyon

Of the Yellowstone,

(After being headed off

At 8800' Dunraven Pass in between,

Sitting there for half an hour

Because a couple of grizzlies

Were by the road up ahead,

Finally chased by

Being fired on with rubber bullets)

It's almost dark

And I find out that

There are good views

Of the Lower Falls

From the south rim

 

The geysers will have to wait, too,

Let alone the Tetons

 

I will just have to

Find a place to stay

In the area

And come back tomorrow

 

The trouble is, where?

 

The park map

Lists lodging locations

Within the park

So I try the one

Where I am,

The Canyon Village

 

It's defunct

 

Stopping to fill my tank,

I ask the attendant,

Who recommends

West Yellowstone,

A town just outside the park

With lots of motels

 

I expedite

The 40 miles

To the town

Over dark park back roads

Helped by the only station

I can find on AM or FM

That is audible

And playing music I like,

And it's a surprise visit

From my old sidekick, KOMA,

The oldies station

In Oklahoma City

(See 'Dona 'Zona)

 

In Oklahoma City

It's still in the high 70's

Though it's 9:30 Central Time

While it's in the 40's here

And dropping fast

 

I'm concerned about

Finding a vacancy

(Sound familiar?)

Because a woman

Who I'd chatted with

At the Lower Falls

Had said something about

Vacancy problems in the area

 

There are scads of motels

But every single one is full

 

At one, the fellow

Says there's nothing

In the next town, either

 

He also says in passing that

Pretty soon he might rent out

The office that we're standing in

 

I note that there are

Two twin beds in an L

In a corner of the office

 

I say "How about now?"

 

We work it out

But I have to pay cash --

$32 including tax,

Which is $100 less than

What I'd paid

The first night in Jasper

 

He even makes a shower

And a bathroom available

Along with towels and soap

And recommends

A non-smoking restaurant,

Where I go after my shower

And have a delightful dinner

 

Then it's cable TV

And lights out --

Except, try as I might,

I can't find a switch

For the ceiling light

 

I finally knock on the inner door

And the switch is inside

The owner's quarters

 

 

Day 17 

 

At 5 AM

I have to go real bad

So I get dressed

And go to find

The lavatory

Behind a nearby building

 

It's a clean, modern,

But unheated washroom

And it's open to the outdoors

And the door has been

Open all night

 

It's in the 20's

And it's a good thing

I don't have to

Drop my drawers

(A woman would be in a bind)

 

I'm itching to get going

So by 6 I'm up and out,

Only brushing my teeth

And combing my hair,

Forgoing any other rituals

 

Breakfast at a place

Open as early as 6

And now back into Yellowstone by 7

 

I can't find

My park receipt

From yesterday,

Good for 7 days --

Would I have to pay $10 again?

 

No one is there

At the toll plaza-like entrance,

But one lane is open for entry,

So I'm in

 

Another myriad of pictures --

Bison and elk,

Geysers and pools,

Lichen and leaves,

Waterfalls and cascades,

Chipmunks and ravens

Burnt and baby trees,

Stumps and flowers,

Mountains and lakes,

Magic and shastoid clouds

(Clouds associated with Mt. Shasta --

Very smooth, rounded, sculpted),

With another sky-eating overcast

Taking over as the day progresses

 

It's back to

The Grand Canyon

Of the Yellowstone,

Both the north and south rims,

Then the Virginia Cascades,

Then the geysers,

Including Old Faithful

 

There are various

Spontaneous stops

Along the way,

E.g. Firehole Falls,

Where numerous chipmunks

Come up to warily take morsels

From people's hands

And then quickly scamper away

To perch on rocks

On an almost vertical wall

While they munch their snack

 

A couple of ravens

Are also accepting food

 

I get to Old Faithful

5 minutes after a spume

So I'll have to wait an hour

But it's 2:30

And I need to eat lunch anyway

 

The first place there

Turns out to be closed

And I walk way over

To the Old Faithful Inn,

Which is serving lunch til 3

According to

A fellow at the first place

 

They'd stopped lunch at 2:30

But a snack bar there is open

 

After standing in line

For a few minutes

It dawns on me that

They might only take cash,

Which I'm not carrying --

Sure enough,

I have to walk

All the way

Back to the car

 

But there is another snack shop

Near where I'm parked --

Closed for the season

 

Yet another snack shop is open

And I go for it

 

It's a joke,

The "cooks" microwaving

Foil-wrapped food

 

Now it's time

To sit and wait for

Old Faithful to blow

 

I get one of the last

Front row seats

And enjoy watching

Shastoid clouds

 

The geyser starts to get active

And I snap a quick shot

With my pocket 35

 

By the time I

Start camcording

The water is already

At full height

And I'm kicking myself

For not catching

The whole process on video,

Especially since

I'd thought about

Doing just that

 

It only lasts a minute

And it's over

 

I can finally leave

Yellowstone

And get on my way south

To the Tetons and beyond

 

A vehicle passes

Going the other way

With a plate

I'd noticed yesterday

But couldn't figure out:

DF NTRP

 

Ah, it just needs a

Different interpretation

 

The clouds keep shastoiding

All afternoon

And the Tetons are neat

But the sun is behind them

So they're mostly silhouettes

 

Just after I do some

Deep thinking about life

And recall that

Everything works out

And relax thanks to this,

A cloud shaped like a dove

And translucent aqua in color

Catches my eye

 

For the next half hour

Clouds near the sun

Take on magical rainbow fringes --

One whole round rainbow cloud

Becomes concentric rings of color

 

These clouds keep reminding me of

My fractal blob world shapes

 

Worried about lodging

Approaching the Jackson Hole area,

I stop in one lodge

But they're booked up

 

Closer to town

Another place has a room

With two queen beds for $75,

But the guy and I agree

That there may be

Something more appropriate

Still available in town

 

I try again

At the first place

I hit in town

And the fellow has

A cabin for a family for $58

But I can have it

 

I take it

 

It's excellent --

Two bedrooms and a bath

 

I'm next door for dinner,

At which point I look up

And notice that

Some of the ceiling lighting

Is in the form of wagon wheels

With lamps around the rims --

That's when it hits me that

The name of the place is

The Wagon Wheel

 

Now I recall that the

Ceiling light in the motel office

Which I couldn't find the switch for

Was a wagon wheel, too

 

After dinner

I walk back

To the motel

And notice,

Besides the fact that

The "no vacancy" sign is on now,

The name of the place is

The Wagon Wheel Village Motel...

 

I walk the several blocks

Into downtown Jackson

(Also called Jackson Hole

And Jackson's Hole),

Hoping that there will be

A number of stores

Where I can browse

For flannel shirts

And maybe a sweater

 

The good news is that there are,

But the bad news is that

Almost all of them are closed

 

I go in a couple

That are still open

And buy two shirts

At this gewgaw and jimcrack mecca,

Which otherwise I probably

Wouldn't have gone in --

They do have quite a

Selection of shirts,

And there are a few

That I might have bought,

But I'm looking forward to

Checking out many other stores

Tomorrow morning when they're open

 

There's an excellent

Indian artifacts store,

The War Bonnet,

And next door to it

A Pendleton store,

Which I anticipate

Will be a gold mine

Of great flannel shirts

When I get to go in tomorrow

 

It's bedtime

 

 

Day 18 

 

I'm torn between

Getting on my way home

And staying in town

Two more days

To catch the start of

The local art festival

 

I decide to leave,

Though this has little to do

With the fact that

My supply of special vitamins

Is steadily dwindling

 

Breakfast next door

 

A guy asks

If he can join me

Since the place is busy,

Tables are at a premium,

And there's a line

 

I say OK,

But I'll be writing

So I won't be real social

 

He says no problem,

He'll be reading the paper

 

Once the food arrives

He starts talking

And motors on

For the next half hour,

Trying to fit in

His whole life story

 

It's time to go

Back into town

To do some

Serious shirt shopping

 

First I get Ronnye

A very nice Indian tile

For her birthday

At the War Bonnet

 

While waiting for

The Pendleton store to open

I get a nice sweater

With beautiful blue in it

At another unlikely store

 

The Pendleton store

Has some nice flannels

But I end up getting

An exquisite wool blanket

To be shipped to me

 

I finish up with

Three more fine flannels

That I'd seen last night

At the gewgaw palace

 

I'm back on the road,

Taking 191

Headed all the way to

Green River, Utah

Due to a revelation

To do Delicate Arch again,

This time properly,

By hiking right up to it

 

An early stop

To photograph

Some aspens turning yellow

Produces a bonus of

A bright blue dragonfly

Posing long enough

For me to snapture it

 

Out of the wooded mountains

And across boring plain

Til mid-afternoon --

It is very quiet

And peaceful, though,

Each time I get out

On the high plain

 

Just before lunch

I finish a tape,

And I'm rationing again,

So I scan for

A radio station --

One comes in

Loud and clear,

KRKK in Rock Springs,

And plays great oldies

(Sometimes rock springs

Refreshingly

From the void of

Stationlessness)

 

The first full song is

"Get Off of My Cloud" --

The last full song on the tape

Had been "Highwire,"

Also by the Stones,

And that had been the first

Stones song in many tapes

 

GOOMC is appropriate

Since somebody

Is tailgating me

As Mick sings

"Don't hang around

'Cause two's a crowd!"

 

Lunch in Rock Springs, Wyoming

 

It seems that

The soup of the day

Everywhere in these states

Is vegetable beef

 

As I pull onto the highway

And see the sign for Green River,

Creedence is blasting on the radio --

Also appropriate

 

Except it turns out to be

The wrong Green River,

The one in Wyoming,

But fortunately

It's still the right way anyway

 

There are some

Interesting round bales

Not only laid end to end

Like earlier tootsie rolls,

But starting to

Blend into each other,

Conjuring giant caterpillars

 

Rold Gold is getting old --

I've been snacking on

This brand of

Convenience store pretzels

While driving

During the whole trip

 

Cruising on US 191

At 7000 feet

In the afternoon sun --

The only real clouds

Appearing as of Rock Springs

 

Curiously, I'd come

Within 5 miles of Idaho

At West Yellowstone

And now within 5 miles

Of Colorado

 

KRKK plays "Pipeline"

Crystal clearly

 

Into Utah

And to Flaming Gorge Dam

 

After gas at Duchesne

It's getting dark

And for an hour

Up to Price,

Where I'd thought

I'd quit for the day,

It's lightninging

Under ominous dark skies

To the south,

Just where I'm headed

 

This doesn't concern me

So much for the ride ahead

As for what it will

Be like tomorrow,

When I hope to hike

Up to Delicate Arch

And with any luck

Get to Escalante

And hike a canyon

 

I arrive at Price --

It's 8:30 and I'm tired

 

I pull over

Just before the first exit

To try to catch

Some of the lightning

On the camcorder

 

I catch some fuzzy flashes of light

But the jagged bolts

Won't cooperate and appear

 

About to pull off the exit

A billboard

Right there all that time

Catches my eye --

A Comfort Inn

With a restaurant

Lies 6 miles ahead

 

That sounds good

And the closer I get

To Green River

The less distance

I'll have to go

To get to the arch early

 

The Comfort Inn is full

And I'm already past Price

So I keep going,

Dog tired,

Into rain now,

All the 50+ miles

To Green River

 

Passing several

Less than glamorous

Motels with vacancies,

I try one nice one

But it's full

 

The other nice one

Has a big room

With two beds

And I take the room

 

The bathroom

Flourescent light

Doesn't come on

More than a dim glimmer

 

I think about

Asking for another room

But am too tired to hassle it

 

Inspired, I discover

That the overhead sunlamp

In the bathroom

Is quite bright,

So that'll do in a pinch

 

I start the shower

And even after several minutes

The water does not get hot,

So I take a quick cold shower

 

It's 10:30

And I want to

Just jump in bed,

Being bleary-eyed,

But I feel I need to eat,

And nearby there's a restaurant

Open 24 hours

 

So, here I am

Having a light meal

Of vegetable beef soup

And a grilled cheese sandwich

 

It's 11:11

And time to hit the hay

 

There's quite a contrast

Between the temperature tonight

And the last several nights --

I'm walking around outside comfortably

In a short-sleeved shirt

And have the A/C on in the room

Because it was stuffy,

While up until now

It's been arctic at night,

Dipping into the 20's

 

It was quite warm, though,

Maybe 70,

During the day in Wyoming

 

 

Day 19

 

Breakfast next door

 

There's a light-gold moth

That has found its

Final resting place

On the roof of my car,

And the odometer reads 74474.4

As I get in to get going

 

It's a hot, dry, sunny day

 

I'm on my way

To the Arches park

 

I arrive at the park at 11

And hike up the trail

To Delicate Arch

In a little over an hour

 

There's even a hole

In one rock wall

That I climb up to

And when I look through it

I get my first glimpse

Of the arch

 

The arch is outstanding,

Though there's barely a moment

When there aren't people

Right at its base

And thus in any picture taken

 

Hiking back down,

At one point I stop

To photograph purple flowers

And just as I snap the picture

A young woman walks by behind me

And apologizes

For possibly affecting the shot

 

She's Asian

 

We end up finishing

The way down together

 

At one point

She asks me

How old I am --

When I tell her I'm 42

She's astonished --

She says I look 30

 

It turns out that

She's 24 and from Taiwan

 

Her husband,

Who's just ahead

On the trail

With another Asian,

Is attending

The University of Utah

 

I remember them all

From when I was

Up on top

At the arch

 

We say so long

And I'm off to try

To get to Escalante

And get some lodging

For the night,

Since there isn't going to be

Enough day left for a canyon hike

 

On my way back up 191

To get to I70

I get a ticket --

Bummer

 

Afterward I wonder when

I'll be cheerful again --

It seems a long way off

 

Back on I70

And a stop for lunch

At 3:30

In Green River again

 

The table I'm at

Has a splendid view

Of the Green River

Right outside the window,

A bridge also right there,

And a butte behind the bridge

 

The elderly folks

At the next table

Talk about a beaver

Swimming in the river

But I can't see it

 

West on I70,

There's a sign

Warning of eagles

On the highway

 

Way up a long incline,

Stuck behind a truck,

Cones keeping us in one lane,

I finally can't stand it

And whip between cones

Into the right lane

And slalom back

Into the left lane

Ahead of the truck

 

Several thousand feet higher

It's like the nearby

Island in the Sky --

Prairie/pasture up on top,

Little evergreens,

Utah buttes and mountains

Off in the distance

 

I pull into a scenic overlook

 

There are a few people there

 

I'm snapping a picture,

One lady almost in it,

And tell her

Not to worry,

She isn't messing it up

 

Her male companion

Has climbed out

Onto precarious rocks

 

She and I

Start talking

And hit it off

 

She takes my picture

 

Her brother Scott returns

 

We chat by their car

 

I tell them

I'm going to Escalante and why --

They're not familiar with it

 

They're headed to Pasadena

Via Bryce and Zion --

She's seeing Scott to Caltech

 

She's also a Ph.D. student,

In molecular biology

At Catholic University

In Washington, D.C.

 

We say goodbye

And as I'm walking away

I call back

"What's your name?"

 

She answers "Eileen Kelly"

 

She asks me mine

 

I walk back to them

And give her my number

In case she wants to look me up

 

We talk some more

 

I show her where Jasper is

 

They offer me apple juice

And other things

And ask if there's anything

That I need

 

Half-jokingly I say that

Yes, I need chap-stick

Because my lips

Are really peeling

From sunburn

 

She has two kinds

And gives me

A stick of Lip Healer

To take with me

 

I say goodbye again

 

As I drive off

I'm wondering if they'll

Go to Bryce and Zion

Via Escalante --

They had both

Expressed interest

In my description

Of the slot canyons

 

I'm hoping that

They'll catch me

So that I can

Show them how

To get there

In case they're

Interested

 

The farther I get

The stronger I wish

I'd brought that up

Explicitly

 

I really like Eileen

And her brother

Seems like a good guy

 

I keep looking behind

For a white car

Catching up to me

And once there was

A false alarm

 

It's finally time

To turn off I70

Onto Utah 72

 

No white car

 

Oh well

 

I start up

This wonderful

Deserted highway

Through wooded mountains

 

Oh, if they only knew

 

Plus, this route

Goes through

The incredible

Dixie National Forest

And it's on the way

To Bryce and Zion anyway

 

A while later

I pull over

To take some pictures,

Having passed a sign

Saying "Paradise Valley"

With two birds on top,

One of which flew off

As I drove by

And its wings were bright blue --

A bluebird of happiness?

 

As I park I see

A number of cows

Right there at the road,

Not fenced in or anything

 

I get out

And I take some pictures

And a car drives up --

A white car --

It's Eileen and Scott!

 

They had talked it over

And decided to go

Via Escalante

 

They pull over,

Get out,

And walk over to the cows

 

We spend a while there

And they say

They'll follow me

 

I say great

But explain that

I might go slow at times

And might stop

To take pictures

 

No problem --

We'll leapfrog

 

I start out

And soon pull over

 

They stop to chat

And then go on ahead

 

Many miles later

As the sun is setting,

There they are,

Pulled off on the left

With Scott taking Eileen's picture

With redlit buttes behind her

 

I go on ahead

And wind my way up

Blue Bell Knoll

And into the Dixie Forest

 

It's just about dark

 

I come around a bend

And there's a nice

Sunset scene

 

I stop and camcord

And a car pulls up --

I wonder who this could be?

 

Yes, it's Eileen and Scott

 

I follow them

For many more miles,

Down out of the forest,

Through Boulder,

And up until

10 miles to go

To Escalante,

When they're stuck

Behind a truck

Going up a hill

 

I wait a while

And then pass them both

 

Driving along now

With them a ways behind,

I notice stars

Through the windshield

 

Looking out my window

I'm astonished to see

The Milky Way

Clearly visible

 

Thinking it might be an illusion,

A reflection on the glass

From my dashboard lights,

I turn them off

And it's still there

 

I pull over and get out

And Wham!

 

I have never seen

The Milky Way

Anywhere near this clearly

 

There are no city lights,

No pollution,

And no moon

To detract from

Visibility

 

Soon Eileen and Scott approach

And I flag them down

 

Eileen can't get over it either

 

She points out

A satellite

 

We finally get to town

Around 9:30

And I stop at

The first motel I see

Which has a vacancy indication

 

They have both

A room for one person

And another with 2 beds

 

This is very lucky --

I had been worried about

Finding any vacancies at all,

Let alone exactly what we want

 

We freshen up

And then seek dinner

 

There is nothing!

 

We walk several blocks

Up to one place that

The motel lady says

Might be open,

But they've closed

 

Walking back,

A policeman pulls up

And chats for a while

 

We decide to pool

What munchies and beverages

That we have in our cars

 

Eileen says she wishes that

She had some tea

And I tell her that

I have some somewhere

 

I go through every box,

Some twice,

Scott holding a flashlight,

But can't find the tea

 

Giving it one more try,

I notice a plastic bag

That's tucked into a niche

Formed by the back seat,

The floor, and a CD box,

But which has been

In plain sight

The whole time

 

As soon as I look at it

I know that the quest

Is finally over

 

Sure enough,

The tea is in the bag

 

Eileen is very happy

 

We sit around in their room

And snack and talk

For a couple of hours

And then it's time for bed

 

 

Day 20

 

I'm up early,

Catching up on

Yesterday's

Post-lunch developments

 

I meet up with the Kelly's

For breakfast

At the Circle D,

Which we'd walked to

For naught last night,

And which serves decaf

Out of a dark pot

And regular out of a red one,

After I leave my car

To have the hood release fixed

And Scott tries

Unsuccessfully

At both mechanics in town

To get his car

Greased and oiled

Right away

 

We part reluctantly

Since I'm headed for

The Escalante canyons

Down 26 miles of dirt road

And the Kelly's opt to

Head for Bryce for

More directly accessible hiking

Due to stricter time constraints

 

My car is ready

 

Back up the road

To the Hole-in-the-Rock turnoff

 

It's 26 miles of

Packed dirt road

With occasional washboards

And ruts and gullies

And takes an hour

Going 35,

15 the last stretch,

Where it's two grooves

And a mound in the middle

And I need to drive

With one wheel on the mound

And the other on

The side of the road

So I don't wipe out

The bottom of my car

 

Some people at the trail head

Mention that they've seen

Rattlesnakes today

 

It's still overcast

As I start down the rocks

To the base of the wall

And the sandy path

 

It's just as well

That it's overcast

Since I got a lot of sun yesterday

And the bottoms of my calves

Are burnt painfully red

 

I get to a wide open area

That the trail book talks about

And see a big crack to the left

 

Walking up to it

It turns out to be a slot --

Jackpot after only 15 minutes

(I realize a funny thing

As I sit here in Nevada

Writing this --

Slots and jackpots...)

 

I walk through

The narrow canyon,

The scalloped walls towering

As much as 100 feet

On both sides,

The slot curving

One way or the other

Every few yards

 

It starts to drizzle

 

If it rains hard

There could be a flash flood

Down the bottom of the slot

 

I keep going,

Following the twists and turns,

And the bottom is narrowing

Until it's only inches wide,

So I have to clamber through

With a foot edged

Into the crack at the bottom

Or work my way over rocks

Filling the bottom

 

I finally reach a point

Where the walls lower

To only ten feet or so

And I can climb up and out

 

Phew!

 

I'm relieved to be

Out of the slot

With the rain continuing,

And start walking back

Along the canyon

But this time

At the top of the wall

 

I reach an impasse --

The heights I'm on stop dead

With an uncrossable chasm

In all directions

 

I have no choice but to backtrack,

Climbing back down into the slot

And retracing my path

Back through the canyon

 

I finally get to the beginning

And work my slow, tired, wet way

Back up to the top of the rocks

And my waiting car

 

I spend quite some time

Cleaning the red mud

Out of the network of canyons

On the soles of my hiking boots

 

The rain lets up

And a patch of blue sky

Actually starts to grow --

Now it gets nice!

 

There's no way

I'm going back down for more

 

This is just as well, too,

Because as I drive back

Up the dirt road,

Behind me the sky

Becomes charcoal grey

 

I finally make it back

Into the town of Escalante,

Enjoying some great tunes

Along the rough route,

And I stop for lunch

At the Circle D --

It's 4:30 already

 

The Essex sing

"Easier Said Than Done"

And I think of Eileen

 

Finally on the road,

I head toward Bryce

 

Only a few minutes out,

Scanning for rainbows

Via my rearview mirror,

Since conditions seem right,

Sure enough I see one

 

I pull over, get out,

And photograph

This beautiful, sharp 'bow

 

A little further

Up the road

I get out again

And the rainbow

Is even bigger,

Arcing across the valley

Containing the town

That I'd just departed,

A fitting farewell

From Escalante

 

I pass by Bryce

And history starts

Repeating itself --

I get to Zion

Just before sunset,

Just like last September

 

I keep going

And as it gets dark

I'm treated to

Great lightning displays

Lighting up

Large cloud formations

 

A bit later

I stop to film this

 

The sky is orange

At the horizon

And I'm amazed by

A whole row of

Lightning storms

Lighting up randomly

Like Christmas tree lights,

One every few seconds

Somewhere along

The southern horizon

 

Back on the road,

It's dark now

As I finally reach

St. George and I15

 

The lightning display continues,

Now startlingly augmented

By the Milky Way

Very visible

In the clear night sky

Above the stormy horizon

 

These conditions

Remain in effect

For the 100 miles

Through Arizona

And into Nevada

 

I run out of cassettes

And the radio

Plays excellent oldies

 

The temperature

At about 9 PM

Is 85° --

What a contrast with

Just a week ago

 

I aim for Glendale

With tired eyes,

And pull into

The same motel

I'd stayed in

Last year

After passing Zion

 

I have dinner

In the same sleazy cafe

Next to the motel,

Driven batty by

An annoying woman

Talking nonstop on the phone

In her cafe booth

Two tables away

 

The only positive thing

About dinner

Is the moth on the table

Keeping me company

 

 

Day 21 

 

I check out

In the combination office/cafe

And walk over to pick a booth

To have breakfast in

And decide to blow this place off

And go somewhere else instead

 

I fill my tank

And try the hood release --

It works

 

It's a good thing, too,

Since I'm headed into

The desert today,

The high is going to be 98,

And there's almost no coolant

Left in the reservoir

 

I stop for breakfaast

At a huge casino

Near the Nevada-California border

 

There are 100's of slot machines

Filling a massive room

And dozens of plush booths

In the restaurant

 

I'm back on the road

And "Shop Around"

And "Candy Girl"

Play back to back

On a local oldies station

 

There's a van on fire

In the other direction

 

A Nevada plate reads:

"KNOWING"

 

It hadn't originally been

On my itinerary,

But since it's Saturday,

A trip into LA

And some music shopping

Seems like a good idea

 

As I see the San Gabriel Mountains

It occurs to me

To take the road

Up through them,

It being early

On a sunny, warm day

 

I head up into the mountains

And stop a few times

For pictures

 

At one point

I'm surprised to see

Snow on the ground,

Almost a mini-glacier

In a depression

On the north side

Of a mountain,

So I pull over

 

A number of teenagers

Are skiing down

Grooves they've made,

With both feet in straps

Of small skiboards

 

I climb down

Inside a gap

Between the several-foot high snow

And the mountain side

To take pictures

And on the climb back out

My rascal lens cap

Gets knocked off

And falls down into

The bottom of the crevice

 

I'm just able to reach it,

So I'm relieved to retain it

 

This is the lens cap that

I'd thought I'd lost

On my trip with Tobey

To Washington state in '89

 

In Seattle

We'd even bumped into

One of the crew

From the ferry to Canada

And had him check into

Any lens caps found,

To no avail

 

It eventually turned up

After the trip

In the bottom of my back pack

 

As I'm about to leave

Up pulls a caravan of Corvettes

 

I finish the mountain route

And descend into Hollywood,

Seeing a good

California plate,

"WILDRNS I,"

Along the way

 

I need to eat

So I have lunch

At a sidewalk stand

In a sleazy section of L.A.,

Around the corner from Aron's,

The tune store I'm headed for

 

I spend three hours

Successfully mining in Aron's,

Scoring, for example,

The new Stewart and Gaskin CD "Spin"

In the used CD bin

After willing that this happen

 

Leaving at 7

I get stuck in

Two bumper-to-bumper

Traffic jams

Before hitting

Free-flowing conditions

 

Stopping for

A delicious

Chicken melt slam

At Denny's

In San Clemente,

I finally arrive home

At about 10:30 PM

To find everything

In its place

And notes from Renate

And her daughter Bettina,

And a gift mug from them

 

They had stayed

In my condo

A few weeks ago

 

Well,

The journey is over,

About 7000 miles

And three weeks

Of adventure

Across the continent

 

It'll be nice to see

All the photographs

And video footage

From the trip

 

Now begins

The adjustment to

Being home again

And picking up

Where I left off

With my work

And my social life

 


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